Live and Invest Overseas

The Aillwee Caves In Ireland’s Burren

The Spirit Of The Season In Ireland’s Burren

Dec. 9, 2009
The Burren, Ireland

PLUS:
  •  The So-Called Joys Of Shopping In France...
  • "Why Do You Not Recommend Ecuador?"...
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Dear Live and Invest Overseas Reader,

"'One more song should get us to Santa,' the elf up the front shouts down the line, before leading us in another chorus of 'Jingle Bells,'" writes Ireland Correspondent Lynn Mulvihill.

"Our little group does its best to join in as we watch our feet on the ups and downs of the wet, winding path. The timing of our leader's 'Jingle bells, mind your heads' is perfect as the taller among us have to stoop to under five feet.

"We're feeling our way through the dimly lit Aillwee Caves in the heart of Ireland's Burren region, all eyes waiting to spot the man in red. Five hundred meters in, we stop before a small stage and see him sleeping before us.

"It's the job of the 20 children of the group to wake him. They do it on the third shout, then fall silent when he calls each one, by name, to his side.

"Leafing through the book where his elves have made their notes, Santa engages in some banter with each child. While the children's eyes linger over the piles of gifts, searching for their names, Santa's jokes, delivered in a Nordic accent, humor the giddy adults.

"Before we leave, gifts in hand, all are reminded of the need to be good--at least until the 25th of the month.

"Now, in full festive spirit, we sing our way out with gusto. Despite the caves' consistent cool of 50 degrees, we emerge warm to the outside world.

"Outside, more elves serve mulled wine and mince pies. There's a small carousel, a puppet show, a storyteller, and tables where the kids can write their letters to Santa, before dropping them in the onsite post-box.

"By noon, the grounds are packed with families spanning three generations, all here to soak up the festive spirit at Santa's Workshop (and to browse the onsite crafts market).

"After a hot chocolate in the tea rooms, we leave the magic behind. The complimentary glass Santa decoration will take pride of place on our Christmas tree this year--reminding us of our little underground adventure."

Kathleen Peddicord

P.S. "Running each year from Nov. 21 to Dec. 22, Santa's Workshop at Ireland's Aillwee Caves is a big event that's booked up months in advance," Lynn continues. "We bought our tickets in August. It's extremely well organized, and the staff does everything they can to make the experience memorable. You need to exercise caution through the cave, but our 2-year-old managed to walk it, and even my father-in-law--with one of Santa's helpers pushing his wheelchair--made it through. More information on the caves and their history here."

P.P.S. You can read Lynn's full report on the charms and the appeals of Irish country life (including details of the current cost of living and of real estate, both of which are lower than they've been in recent memory) here.

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TODAY:

"Today I had my first argument with a French shopkeeper in French," writes France Correspondent Lucy Culpepper. "I'm happy to report that my vocabulary is improving sufficiently to do this. Alas, my improved language skills were no help!

"I purchased two sets of gifts from a specialty shop on Monday. Today, just two days later, I went back to return one set (for various annoying reasons). I assumed that, as only two days had passed since my purchase, the shop wouldn't have a problem refunding me...but no chance!

"It would seem that French shop owners (and even some of the mega-chain stores in this country) really do take to heart some mumbo-jumbo sent down from the European Court stating that 'a shop is under no legal obligation to give a refund, unless some agreement was made at the time of purchase.' In the UK, from where I hail, most shops offer generous return policies, and in the United States, I know, not an eyelid is batted when goods are brought back for a refund. Here in France, all you get is a flat, "Non." It comes as a shock the first time.

"I should have known better, having lived for seven years in Spain, where shopkeepers look at you with pity if you try to return anything. But in France...how can these elegant, well-behaved, sophisticated people also be so exasperating and short-sighted?

"Vive La France and it's wonderfully double-sided personality."

MAILBAG:

"I noticed you didn't include Ecuador on your Top 10 Retirement Havens list. I heard it's very affordable. Why do you not recommend it?"

-- B.T., United States

Ecuador would be near the top of my World's Most Affordable Retirement Havens list. It's probably the most affordable option in Latin America.

However, for my overall Top 10 list, I identified not the world's cheapest, but the world's 10 best places to think about living in retirement. This does not include Ecuador. Its infrastructure is limited, its ways of doing things more Third World than I think the average foreign retiree is prepared for. I've been to Ecuador a couple of dozen times over the past dozen years. I've opened an office there, hired staff, hosted conferences, and researched the real estate market. I wouldn't go out of my way to return.

On a list of doing-business havens, Ecuador would fall nowhere near the top. Likewise on a list of real estate investment havens right now. On the other hand, it's not that I don't recommend this country for retirement. It's that I think you have better options, unless reducing your cost of living is your primary agenda and you want to stay in the Americas (Asia can be cheaper if you're up for more exotic).

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