Boquete

Feb. 23, 2010
Boquete, Panama

PLUS:

• Confessions Of A 30-Year Expat...
• The U.S. State Department As Travel Guide...

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Dear Live and Invest Overseas Reader,

"One of my original complaints about Boquete, Panama's most popular mountain town," writes Panama Letter Editor Rebecca Tyre, "was that there are too many expats and tourists in the region for my liking. Why move to a new country if you aren't going to experience the local lifestyle as much as possible?

"I revisited Boquete last week for the first time in a couple of years, though, and I came to appreciate the upside of having so many expats around. Speaking with the wisdom of hindsight, I can say that, the truth is, living among expats when I first moved to Panama nearly five years ago, maybe my transition would have been easier.

"The estimated expat population of Boquete is around 2,000. This has created pockets of opportunity that entrepreneurially inclined expats and Panamanians both are capitalizing on. Though picturesque Boquete has just 10,000 local residents in total, the services and goods available in this hinter-region rival those of the country's capital, Panama City. Those 2,000 expats-in-residence are an eager and hungry market.

"My favorite afternoon hangout in Boquete is Amigos bar and restaurant, run by a Canadian couple. Here you can enjoy typical pub fare, live music in the evenings, US$1 Balboa beers, and a friendly conversation with other expats or tourists. Next-door to Amigos is Hostal Mamallena, a favorite among backpackers.

"While some areas of Panama seem to cater to a more mature crowd of expats and tourists, in Boquete you find young and old alike. Hikers in their 20s cross the town square with overflowing backpacks, young couples push their children in strollers, and retired expats share an afternoon coffee. Also in Boquete, you'll find not only Americans and Canadians, but English-speaking expats from around the globe.

"A number of European transplants own gourmet coffee farms in the tree-covered hillsides of Volcan Baru. Others have invested in the cafes, ice cream shops, restaurants, bistros, and snack shops that line Boquete's main street. Romero's grocery store is located a block off the town square and caries many North American brand name goods. You won't find these kinds of services in other small towns in Panama. In many Panamanian small towns, you'll be lucky to find an English-speaking waitress to take your order.

"Zanzibar, a trendy bar on main street, is my preferred nighttime hangout. The proprietors are South African and Greek, and the décor hints at their different backgrounds. Enjoy a glass of Abuelo, Panama's best rum, perched atop the back of a wooden tiger stool. The music is tribal and played at a perfect volume for carrying on conversation with friends.

"You can't get bored in this charming village. You could eat out in a different restaurant every night of the week. Or attend a play put on by the Boquete Community Players...attend one of the weekly expat meetings...or participate in one of the expat-organized community-improvement projects.

"Boquete boasts a high level of amenities and services already, but better and better things are planned. Construction is to begin soon on a large U.S.-style grocery store (of Super99, the chain owned by Panama's president), and Hospital Chiriqui is building a medical clinic on the highway leading into town.

"Boquete's expats are close-knit, yet there are so many that you could be in Boquete for a couple of days and not see the same face twice. My friend Jim has lived in Boquete for three years and says that he meets new expats almost every day, many of whom have lived here as long as he has.

"Boquete is not necessarily the place to move if you want to immerse yourself in local life and live like a Panamanian. There are other small towns where you could be more successful at that.

"On the other hand, Boquete could be right for you if you want to become part of an established community of English-speakers, keep very active, and enjoy most of the amenities of back home.

"It's also one of the few places in Panama where knowing Spanish is not imperative. The welcoming group of expats here could make the transition to your new home easier than it might be otherwise. Moving from North America to Boquete, you might experience no culture shock at all."

Kathleen Peddicord

P.S. Panama Letter Editor Rebecca Tyre will be among the expats addressing the group assembled here in Panama City for our Live & Invest in Panama Conference, which kicks off tomorrow afternoon. Rebecca will share further details of her recent visit to Boquete, first for attendees at this week’s event and then, next month, in the March issue of the Panama Letter, which will feature a complete guide to expat life in Panama’s best-known and most-developed expat community. If you’re not yet a Panama Letter subscriber, get on board here now.

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---------- "My goal in the next 20 minutes or so is to help you understand a little more about some of the key numbers behind what you'll find here in Panama, both today and, more important, in the coming weeks and months as you make your own plans for living or investing in this country."

That's how friend and longtime British expat David Stubbs begins the presentation he'll be making for attendees at our Live & Invest in Panama Conference commencing tomorrow afternoon here in Panama City. David sent me a sneak preview of his planned remarks...which continue:

"My name is David Stubbs. I am a serial expat. I left the UK some 30 years ago and have lived since in seven countries on three continents.
"There is no doubt that Panama has its advantages..."

More as the week's Live & Invest in Panama adventures continue... "Kathleen, we have checked on both Belize and Panama. The U.S. Customs service gave both countries a high travel alert for U.S. citizens. Could you please advise? We had planned on going to your Panama seminar until we read this. Now we're not sure what to do."

-- David M., United States

First, neither Belize nor Panama is on either the U.S. State Department's Travel Alert or Travel Warning list (I'm not aware of any such list published by U.S. Customs). You can read about the countries that are here:

• U.S. State Department Travel Alerts
• U.S. State Department Travel Warnings

Second, my advice? Forget the U.S. State Department. I've had the experience often of being someplace where the U.S. State Department was actively warning Americans against traveling...and never have I noticed any reason, on the ground, for staying away.

In fact, a State Department warning against a place can often be a signal that you should think about planning a trip there. Others who don't know better are paying attention to State Department thinking (what a dangerous idea), meaning tourist traffic is down and, typically, prices, too. You have the place to yourself, you enjoy better service (because the poor folks trying to earn a living from the tourist trade are hungry), and you get the best deals.

Finally, there are more good reasons to be spending time and money in Panama right now than ever. If the State Department or anyone else suggests otherwise, you're safe to conclude they don't have any idea what they're talking about.

The only way for you to know whether Panama is a place for you to think about spending your own time and money is to come on down and see for yourself. It's too late to join us for this week's Live & Invest in Panama Conference, but we're making the recordings of the two-and-a-half day event available as part of our Live & Invest in Panama Home Conference Kit. You'll be able to reserve your pre-publication copy at a discount starting tomorrow.