March 10, 2010
Antigua, Guatemala
PLUS:
- "Kathleen, I Wish You Would Get Your Facts Straight"...
- Your Best Guides To Thailand And India...
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Amidst vistas of nearly indescribable beauty, you can pay US$100 a month for rent, spend only 1% of the usual cost of health care, and eat a full lunch for only 50 cents.
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Dear Live and Invest Overseas Reader,
"The flames engulfed the large rubber ball, which was coming toward me, trailing plumes of thick black greasy smoke," writes Central America Correspondent Michael Paladin.
"The warrior with the black and white skull painted on his face followed the burning ovoid, flailing at it with a crudely made Maya version of a hockey stick. The other players chased him, dressed in breech clouts, padded armor, and streaked black make-up.
"Where in the world was this taking place?
Antigua, Guatemala. The occasion was the re-enactment of the traditional Maya game, pok-ta-pok, benefiting a local NGO that's trying to preserve the growing and export of cacao in the old ways. The ball, made of native rubber, is about 12 inches in diameter and weighs about 4 pounds. When it's soaked in gasoline (a non-traditional accelerant), the effects are spectacular.
"The previous game, watched by more than 60 expats, was of the more traditional variety. Without using their hands, players attempted to bounce, carom, or elbow the ball through the large carved wooden circle mounted on the brightly painted red and green backboard set at the traditional height of 27 feet. It took a while before Skull Face made the first goal, after which he sat out, offered prayers to the gods, and knocked back some Gatorade.
"One thing about retiring and becoming a resident expatriate in Guatemala is that you're never bored. In fact, you never know what to expect one day to the next.
"As Semana Santa (Holy Week) approaches, a few hundred thousand spectators are beginning to pour into the city for the daily parades of red-clad Roman soldiers, purple-gowned acolytes, and the black-tuniced
cofradias (brotherhoods) who march through the city shouldering multi-ton religiously themed barges. At night, the biers are lighted by noisy portable generators attached via thick umbilical cords. A brass band always brings up the rear, their drums beating baleful dirges.
"The massive clouds of incense are stifling, and the sounds of the firecrackers going off is as constant as the drumming. Three-foot-long, four-inch-diameter metal pipe mortars are a particular favorite.
"Cymbals also play a big role in the festivities, and the streets are strewn with pine needles. Their scent fills the air as the parades trample them. The hand-crafted
alfombras (carpets) made of sawdust, also trampled, become unrecognizable. Just another night in Antigua...
"The Easter processions in Antigua are second in size only to those of Granada, Spain, and most locals take the opportunity to rent their houses out to tourists at exorbitant rates and escape to the beach for a week or so.
"What am I saying? Holy Week? It's more like Holy Month And A Half of processions, up one cobblestone street and down the other, going from this church to that church, bearing life-size images of Jesus and Mary or the glass-encased remnants of wizened and preserved local saints..."
Kathleen Peddicord
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"Kathleen, I get really irritated when you make statements that are not true. Recently, your letter stated that there was
a property on Ambergris Caye worth over a million dollars available for around $400,000. I contacted the main realtor and head of the real estate commission in Belize, and she checked and knew absolutely noting about it.
"I wish you would get your facts straight and check out the information before you publish it in your letters."
-- Jackie M., United States
There is no multiple listing service (MLS) in
Belize; therefore, no one, including the head of the real estate commission, is going to know about every property for sale countrywide.
Yes, there is a local MLS service on Ambergris Caye, but not every property for sale will be listed in it. People sell privately. In the case of the US$1 million house we reported on recently, as we explained, this is being offered via a closed-bid foreclosure auction being held by a Belize bank. You'll need to contact the bank for more information. No real estate agent has the listing.
"Earlier in my life, I traveled by myself all over
Thailand. Now I'm thinking I'd like to move back there. Either Thailand or India. Can you introduce me to someone who has done this and can tell me the best and also the not best places to live?
"I am looking at US$1,000 a month in Social Security income, and I am not picky. I could live in a bungalow, near or not so near to the beach. Thanks for any insight."
-- Melissa K., United States
Most knowledgeable resources I know for this part of the world are our Intrepid Correspondent Paul Terhorst and Asia Correspondent Wendy Justice. I'll forward your e-mail to them and ask if they'll follow up with you directly.
Meantime, we've compiled Paul's reports on Asia in general, including articles he's filed from the road in both Thailand and India, into a one-of-a-kind guide to this part of the world written not for the tourist but for the would-be expat resident or retiree.
More here.
