Live and Invest Overseas

Travel France

My Favorite Pretty Little French Country Town

March 22, 2010
Béarn, France

PLUS:
  • If Rush Limbaugh Moved To Costa Rica, Should You Think About Following Him?...
  • "As National Health Care Legislation Threatens To Add More Taxes And Expenses To Already Overburdened Americans, I Just Remind Everyone That 'I'm Moving To Panama!'"...
  • Help With Your Foreign Language Study...
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Dear Live and Invest Overseas Reader,

"With so many pretty little towns in the region," writes France Correspondent Lucy Culpepper in her feature report on the Béarn region of that country in this month's issue of the Overseas Retirement Letter, "it's difficult to choose a favorite. But, for me, the town of Morlaas stands out. It is a good size, not too big or too small. I find it very welcoming, offering every facility and service you need, plus an interesting historical center and a beautiful country setting.

"Morlaas lies 12 kilometers to the north of Pau, the regional capital, on a ridge (at 350 meters) overlooking the Plain of Pau that runs west-east across the area. To the south are views of the Pyrenees, to the north the undulating wooded farmland that continues on toward Bordeaux, 200 kilometers north. Some 4,121 inhabitants, known locally as Morlanais, live over an area of 1,355 hectares.

"After the Roman city of Beneharnum was destroyed by the Vikings in 840, Morlaas became the capital of the ancient province of Béarn. During that time, it even had its own mint. Money from Morlaas was a sought-after commodity and was used in the Navarre region, in Aragon, and in Italy.

"Morlaas remained the capital until the 12th century, when Orthez took over. Since 1154, Morlaas has been on one of the St. James of Compostela routes and was one of the original resting points for pilgrims. Today's travelers are welcomed at a small dormitory-style resting place or the municipal campsite.

"As you drive into the town, off to the right is the main sporting area (rugby and soccer), the open-air market, and the farmer's market. On through toward the main high street you pass centuries-old buildings before coming to the steps of the 12th-century Romanesque gateway of Ste. Foy church. To the side is the main square surrounded by ancient buildings that now house the post office and the town hall.

"During the 18th century, Morlaas fell on hard times and became cut off from the rest of the region. The locals, in an attempt to improve the economy, turned their hand to cabinet-making, eventually becoming sought after for their skilled work.

"The 19th century marked a turn in Morlaas' fortunes, when it became a renowned fox-hunting center, attracting horsemen from around the world. With the outbreak of war, the 'sport' ceased. Today the fox is represented by two people, who depart early in the morning, carrying a garment sprayed with a synthetic fox odor.

"The hunt pursues the pseudo-fox around the Morlanais countryside. Horse riding is one of the most popular pursuits here; you will see many stables in the area where you can livery or 'rent' a horse.

"The Mairie of Morlaas recently began a cultural and architectural renovation program; the town has been cleaned, ancient monuments restored, and open spaces cleared. And there is a lot of open space in Morlaas...space to sit quietly in the summer shade, to watch the locals playing boules, and to rest while the world whizzes by. Just a few kilometers outside the center of the town is the Lahitau Forest where you can walk freely along the trails.

"You'll find everything you need for daily living, including three large supermarkets and a medical center with family doctors, radiologists, blood analysis, physiotherapists, dentists, and podiatrists.

"There's a veterinary center, an animal protection center, schools, banks, bakeries, butchers, newspaper shops, and florists. Morlaas has an active community center offering classes in classic dance, jazz, rock and salsa, sewing, embroidery, walking, swimming, tennis, photography, and guitar...there's something for everyone and every age.

"The Mairie organizes shows and movies throughout the year; the big treat in February was a performance by the Biarritz Ballet Corp performing Tchaikovsky's Suites. A general market selling everything from sheets to screwdrivers takes place every two weeks and a farmer's market is held every Saturday. At the farmer's market, you can buy locally grown organic fruits and vegetables, homemade breads, Brebis cheese, jellies, locally cured meats, and, in season, cepes (wild mushrooms), chestnuts, cherries, and apples.

"I found a number of properties for sale in Morlaas, and there is a great diversity of property for sale in the Béarn region in general--including, at press time, a lovely stone barn that has been converted to a three-bedroom house and is on offer for 150,000 euro, a typical Béarnaise farmhouse with outbuildings available for 150,000 euro, and a 60,000-euro renovation project. Details are included in my report in this month's ORL issue."

Kathleen Peddicord

P.S. Lucy's report walks you through the process of finding a rental in this region, as well.

Editor's Note: If you're not yet an Overseas Retirement Letter subscriber, become one here now in time to read Lucy's complete guide to expat life in this beautiful and quintessentially French country region.

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TODAY:

"The Costa Rican government has recently decided to declare the retirement service business to be of national interest," writes a contact from that country this morning. "This will give the participants advantageous institutional support.

"Rush Limbaugh has also said he is considering to move to Costa Rica, but I am not sure he would be granted entry into the country!

"I am writing to you to find out how we can put Costa Rica in the spotlight of your publications. We are convinced that Costa Rica belongs among the best retirement havens in the world."

I forwarded the news alert to our Correspondent in Costa Rica, David Stubbs, who replies:

"This strategy might actually work if the Costa Rican government reintroduces an aggressive pensionado program and promises not to take it away (without grandfathering the people who were previously qualified), as they did in the past. 

"This is not the first mention I've heard that this policy shift might be coming, but I see nothing in the works, only vague references. And this would be contrary to everything else that I have seen from the administration recently."

We'll continue to follow up and will keep you posted.

MAILBAG:

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"Any move is scary, especially an international one. But I'm ready. I'm always joking with my friends that I'm 'getting Panama lean and mean,' or, on evenings like this one, when national health care legislation threatens to add more taxes and expenses to already overburdened Americans, I just remind everyone that 'I'm moving to Panama!'.

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"What a logical and entrepreneurial idea to combine your knowledge, passion, and ideas with your contacts and resources. Win/win/win."
 
-- Joanne V., United States

***

"Kathleen, your report last week on language difficulties traveling in Montenegro reminded me of this site:

http://www.fsi-language-courses.org/

"Basically this site is a group of volunteers digitizing older language courses that the Foreign Service Institute used to train diplomatic staff."

-- Jim S., United States

 

 

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