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San Salvador Surprises
Nov. 18, 2008
Panama City,
Panama
PLUS:
- What About The Wars And The Gangs? The Guerilla Fighters Are
Now Voting Instead Of Shooting...
- Thankfully, This Is No Guatemala City...
- Where To Dock Your Yacht In Europe...
- Panama's Month Of Independence...
AND:
- "El Valle, Panama, The World's Top Retirement Haven? This Is
The Best Joke I Have Heard Lately!"...
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Dear Overseas Opportunity Letter Reader,
"El
Salvador is a small country," writes Roving Central America
Correspondent Michael Paladin, "wedged between Guatemala to the west
and Nicaragua to the east. About the size of Massachusetts or New
Hampshire, it is infrequently in the path of hurricanes and subject
occasionally to volcanic eruptions from two or three active volcanoes.
"The people here live well. The soil is fertile, the coffee
world-class. There are more than 20 volcanoes in all, only a few
active, arranged along two east-west mountain ranges. The River Lempa
bisects the country.
"Originally settled some 10,000 years ago
by Paleo-Indian groups from the north, and then by the Olmecs,
considered by some the first Meso-American civilization, the country
served as a crossroads for trade from east to west.
"Later,
with the demise of the Mayan Empire to the north, small bands of
Aztecs and Toltecs migrated south from Mexico, bringing with them
3,000 years of pre-Hispanic culture.
"Next on the scene was
Pedro de Alvarado, who, before coming to El Salvador, had already
thrown his weight around in Guatemala. Upon his arrival in the country
in the early 1500s, things changed. The country became an important
exporter of indigo, then coffee. As throughout the region, the land
and the power resided with the few, the descendants of the Spanish
conquistadores. This remains true today.
"The population of El
Salvador is nearing 7 million people, of which 2 million live in the
capital city, San Salvador. Another 2 million El Salvadorians live
outside the country, mostly in the U.S., sending home several billion
dollars a year, or some 15% of El Salvador's national GDP.
"What about the wars and the gangs? The most recent conflict was
settled in 1992, and the guerilla fighters, the FMLN, were admitted
into the political process, where they remain today, voting instead of
shooting.
"The gangs? The Maratruchas and the MS-13 boys? They
were put down with a heavy hand by President Tona Saca, who called his
campaign Mano Duro. The present candidate for president has proposed a
new slogan: Super Mano Duro.
"There are probably more gang
members in the States than in El Salvador, despite the continual
repatriation. They're easy to spot; they sport extensive tattoos and
fight a lot.
"Did I feel safe during my recent visit? Yes. You
should avoid the barrios in certain parts of San Salvador,
especially at night, but that's good advice for most all Central
America. There are guns, cheap liquor, and machismo enough in this
part of the world to go around.
"San Salvador boasts two super
malls: Metrocentro and the newer Multi-Plaza. These are multi-story
fashion-, jewelry-, art-, bookstore-, and food court-laden edifices
with anything and everything you could think of. I know of no other
malls like these. If you want it, they've got it.
"Stick to the
better parts of the city for your first visit. The Zona Rosa to the
west has the better hotels. The city has two zonas nocturas for
bar-hopping, with the Zona Rosa being the better choice.
"There are two seasons in El Salvador, the wet (May through October)
and the dry (November through April). Temperatures run from the low
60's to the 100's. Along the coast, it gets steamy. I played 15 holes
there last week and gave out, in spite of the Gatorade.
"I
wasn't prepared to like San Salvador. I was expecting Guatemala City,
and I arrived with an attitude problem, probably aggravated by the
five-hour bus ride I took from Guatemala to get there.
"By the
second morning, though, I was at ease and impressed with the city, the
people, the food, and the climate. The Museo Guzman is a must, and I
liked the Holiday Inn for their food and service.
"The
countryside is beautiful and well-tended. The highways are the best
I've seen in Central America. The U.S. has been giving El Salvador a
lot of money, and it shows. They've spent it well.
"Will I go
back? Absolutely...probably not by bus, but I will return. There's
something charming and different about this country. I recommend at
least a few days on the ground. Taxis are plentiful and cheap.
"Come visit. You'll be surprised. I was."
Kathleen
Peddicord
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TODAY:
Here in Panama, they don't celebrate a day of Independence.
They celebrate an entire month.
November is back-to-back
holidays and one weekend trek to the beach after another, as the
Panamanians mark their separation from Colombia on Nov. 3 (105 years
ago this year)...and then, later in the month, Nov. 28, their split
from Spain (187 years ago). In between those two dates, they schedule
Flag Day.
The buildings around us here in Paitilla are draped
with red, white, and blue bunting...and, across the country, all month
long, there are parades, processions, dianas (reveilles),
open-air music, and dancing in the streets.
FROM THE MAILBAG:
"The timing is great for me to find your site. I live on a yacht
in Toronto, Canada, and, from time to time, do the occasional charter
to offset my expenses.
"I've often thought of moving the yacht
somewhere warm. Do you have any suggestions for where might be good?
"I am an Englishman and have a passion for Europe. I'm not
necessarily a great sun worshipper...just not keen on the long
Canadian winters.
"Here's my website so you can get an idea of
my set-up:
www.maritime-gypsy.ca"
-- David W., currently docked in
Canada
Croatia is probably your best option in
Europe, dear reader. With all the islands and charter activity, you
could move around easily and continue offering the occasional charter,
as you're doing now in Canada.
In Central America, Panama
is probably the best choice...or Los Suenos in Costa Rica.
In South America, Uruguay boasts good marinas, one at
Piriapolis and one at Punta del Este. Uruguay could make a lot of
sense, as you aren't looking necessarily for tropical.
***
"Your top retirement place in the world is
El Valle, Panama? That's so funny, it's insane. It's a town
with nothing there. Why even pick one that is three hours from Panama
City? Pick one that's eight or nine hours. If the idea is to be stuck
out in the middle of nowhere, pick the Darien. I would bet my last
Balboa cerveza that Kathleen has never even spent any
significant amount of time there. This is the best joke I have heard
lately...thanks!"
-- Bob S., Panama
The El Valle
of which we write and which we so heartily recommend, dear reader,
isn't three hours from Panama City. It's but an hour-and-a-half away,
which is why it's the choice of so many in-the-know Panamanians who
keep weekend homes here...so they can get out of the city.
And
that's the point--to get out of the city...while remaining, still,
nearby enough to take advantage of the infrastructure and services it
offers.
Remember, the until-now recognized #1 retirement haven
in this country has been Boquete...which is an eight- or nine-hour
drive or an in-country plane ride away from the capital. But that
hasn't kept this little mountain town from developing into an
important expat center.
No question...mountain living isn't for
everyone. But, all things considered, a small, safe, friendly mountain
town...with great weather and an affordable cost of living...within an
hour-and-a-half drive of a capital city that is a banking, travel,
business, and trade hub...in a country that is a tax haven and that
boasts the world's best program of benefits and discounts for foreign
retirees?
That's no joke, dear reader. That's the
world's top retirement haven.
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