From its inception, the Isthmus of Panama has attracted merchants the world over, all eager to turn a profit in this land of opportunity. Like immigrants everywhere, they brought their cultures and customs along with them, and nowhere has this been more apparent than in Panama’s dynamic and ever-evolving food-biz landscape.

It’s been over a century since the Panama Canal opened its locks to world commerce. In that time, waves of arrivals have contributed to the melting pot of cuisines we see in the country today, from Chinese chow mein to Jamaican jerk and some of the best pizza you’ll find outside of Italy. In the last decade, give or take a few years, Panama City has morphed into a must-experience foodie destination for gourmands of all stripes, with street food and fine-dining options to tempt the most demanding palates.

In this special report, we explore the country’s landscape through its food, seeing it through the eyes of the restaurateurs who are bringing the flavors of the world to our doorstep. We’ll check out good eats from Panama City out to the beaches and up to the mountain towns… and take a peek behind the kitchen doors of those intrepid entrepreneurs—some expat, others local—with the business chops to make their living one plate (or coffee cup) at a time.