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Like Napa 50 Years Ago

Kathleen Peddicord by Kathleen Peddicord
Sep 02, 2009
in Argentina, Retirement/Living
0
A view over the city of Mendoza, Argentina.
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Like Napa 50 Years Ago

“Life is so pampered in this part of the world,” writes Correspondent Siri Lise Doub, “that you can feel like a guest in your own home.

“Can all this beauty, service, and quality of life be affordable, too? Surprisingly, yes. Your gardener’s salary? US$100 a month. Grandchildren coming to visit? A full-time nanny costs US$400 a month; a full-time maid, the same. A round of golf is US$4; a cup of coffee is 95 cents. A good table wine is US$2–a really good one, US$5.

“For the active retiree, who isn’t ready to sit back and rock on his front porch, there really is no better place than the Mendoza province of Argentina. Sports enthusiasts enjoy skiing, hiking, climbing, bird-watching, white-water rafting, kayaking, even kite-surfing. And golfers rejoice: Argentina has more golf courses than the rest of Latin America combined.

“Nature enthusiasts have their share of activities, as well, thanks to the vibrant natural bird life, inactive volcanoes, rivers and lakes, and reserves of guanacos and vicunas (relatives of the llama). And, after a day on the rocks or waters here, you can tango the night away at one of the many entertainment venues…or simply relax at the spas of Pismanta, which offer everything from hydro-massages and mud-therapy treatments to a vaporarium.

“Then again, in this part of the world, kicking back in a rocking chair on your front porch isn’t a bad option here, either. With breathtaking views of the Western Hemisphere’s highest point–the 6,959-meter high Cerro Aconcagua (the “roof of Americas”)–and the rolling vineyards that have made this region popular among wine aficionados across the world, Mendoza’s beauty attracts as many visitors as its sports activities.

“Wine, relaxation, and sports provide the recipe for a great vacation. But what about day-to-day living?

“Mendoza has a near-perfect climate. Its laid-back atmosphere, safe cities, strong infrastructure, unspoiled culture, affordability, and reliable and friendly people are drawing the attention of expats from around the world. And, with skiing in winter, sailing and trekking in summer, this region is as enticing as such premier vacation destinations as Switzerland and northern Italy….yet the cost of living is literally a fraction what it is in those
places.

“A drive west from Buenos Aires into the Cuyo province takes you across the desert park of San Luis and into the Mendoza region. You feel the rolling hillsides almost before they appear…then you see the vineyards and the lush hillsides that are putting Argentina on the world’s wine map, all back-dropped by the formidable Andean mountain
range.

“Visitors to the Mendoza province are often captivated by San Rafael’s charms. Tom Phelan, an American now living in Mendoza province, came for three weeks and stayed three months–before he decided to stay for good. I’ve heard again and again of other travelers who’ve had the same experience. They came to visit, then couldn’t bear to leave. Today, it’s estimated that 400 American families live in the area.

“San Rafael’s situation is unique–right where the Ríos Diamante and Atuel emerge from the Andean foothills. The lushness of the town, in stark contrast to the neighboring desert landscape, explains the prosperity of its sprawling vineyards. Sanrafaelinos embrace their rivers: Atuel is the perfect starter river for rafters, while the Diamante offers some of the most exciting rafting in the country.

“It’s been said that San Rafael (with about 170,000 residents) is to Mendoza as Sonoma is to Napa, California–smaller and quieter but with great wine. Tom equates it to the Norman Rockwell California of 50 years ago. Still, it’s probably the most modern of Mendoza’s towns.

“You’ll immediately notice the relaxed atmosphere. It feels like a forgotten European town. Acequias, or streetside canals, line the clean, broad sidewalks where cafés buzz with the conversation of people tomar un cafe (taking a coffee). The central square is alive with couples walking hand-in-hand and kids on bikes, their girlfriends riding on the handlebars, and the benches are crowded with people chatting in the shade of the sycamore trees. San Martin’s heroic Andes crossing is eternalized by a bronze statue here, and the classical San Rafael cathedral looms from the square’s northeastern corner. There’s not a fast-food restaurant in sight.

“The afternoon siesta, which lasts from lunch to about 4 p.m., quiets town traffic and creates a calmness along the streets in the afternoon sun. The town comes alive again at dusk.

“San Rafael is flat and laid out in a grid, so it’s very walkable and easy to figure out. Move here, and you’ll never have to get in your car again. Better still, bring your bike and leave your car behind. (Argentina has one of the highest traffic accident rates in the world.)

“Bicipartes is a good bike rental spot. The most popular ride leaves from the shop and runs parallel to Avenida Hipolito Yirigoyen. The wide bike lane here goes straight through the heart of San Rafael’s wine country, taking you past a multitude of wineries…”

Kathleen Peddicord

Editor’s Note: A full Mendoza Retirement Report is available here.

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Kathleen Peddicord

Kathleen Peddicord

Kathleen Peddicord has covered the live, retire, and do business overseas beat for more than 30 years and is considered the world's foremost authority on these subjects. She has traveled to more than 75 countries, invested in real estate in 21, established businesses in 7, renovated historic properties in 6, and educated her children in 4.

Kathleen has moved children, staff, enterprises, household goods, and pets across three continents, from the East Coast of the United States to Waterford, Ireland... then to Paris, France... next to Panama City, where she has based her Live and Invest Overseas business. Most recently, Kathleen and her husband Lief Simon are dividing their time between Panama and Paris.

Kathleen was a partner with Agora Publishing’s International Living group for 23 years. In that capacity, she opened her first office overseas, in Waterford, Ireland, where she managed a staff of up to 30 employees for more than 10 years. Kathleen also opened, staffed, and operated International Living publishing and real estate marketing offices in Panama City, Panama; Granada, Nicaragua; Roatan, Honduras; San Miguel de Allende, Mexico; Quito, Ecuador; and Paris, France.

Kathleen moved on from her role with Agora in 2007 and launched her Live and Invest Overseas group in 2008. In the years since, she has built Live and Invest Overseas into a successful, recognized, and respected multi-million-dollar business that employs a staff of 35 in Panama City and dozens of writers and other resources around the world.

Kathleen has been quoted by The New York Times, Money magazine, MSNBC, Yahoo Finance, the AARP, and beyond. She has appeared often on radio and television (including Bloomberg and CNBC) and speaks regularly on topics to do with living, retiring, investing, and doing business around the world.

In addition to her own daily e-letter, the Overseas Opportunity Letter, with a circulation of more than 300,000 readers, Kathleen writes regularly for U.S. News & World Report and Forbes.

Her newest book, "How to Retire Overseas: Everything You Need to Know to Live Well (for Less) Abroad," published by Penguin Random House, is the culmination of decades of personal experience living and investing around the world.

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