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Travel in Espelette, France

Kathleen Peddicord by Kathleen Peddicord
Nov 02, 2010
in Retirement/Living
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red and white buildings covered in ivy
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Autumnal Delights In Southwest France

“Now that we have been living in the southwest of France for almost two years,” writes France Correspondent Lucy Culpepper, “I feel I can declare fall to be my favorite time of year in this part of the world.

“Most mornings are crispy fresh and misty, about 40 degrees Fahrenheit. As the sun rises, and the mist burns off, the views to the Pyrenees Mountains are breathtaking. The clarity of the air makes it possible to see clearly the Pic du Midi and its observatory, with a smattering of snow, some 60 miles away at an elevation of 9,439 feet.

“As the morning goes on, the temperatures can rise as high as 68 degrees Fahrenheit, warm enough to enjoy a meal out on the terrace.

“All around, the trees are turning. It’s reminiscent of fall in Virginia or North Carolina. This year there has been a bumper crop of all fruit, including fall nuts; we return from woodland walks with bags full of gleaming chestnuts to roast in the fireplace. Though the daytime temperature is springlike, the nights are chilly, and an open fireplace is a blessing.

“This perfect weather made our recent trip to the chili festival in Espelette in the French Basque region all the more enjoyable. Strings of bright red and luscious chili peppers bedecked the whole village. The rich chili color matched the red paintwork typical of Basque facades, making the houses come to life, rather like tassels on a show horse’s bridle. We wandered for hours through the lanes of the village sampling chili peppers, ewe’s milk cheeses, Bayonne ham, fresh cider, fruit beers, and delicious wines.

“An entire road was given over to selling the famous stripy Basque textiles; including espadrilles, towels, bags, and aprons. We fell for some chili pepper jewelry displayed on…yet more chili peppers. Espelette is also home to several boutique shops selling exquisite handmade crafts; this is a richly wooded region giving plenty of raw materials for some of the best marquetry I’ve ever seen.

“For the cherry on top of the pie (that would be a Basque pie), we wandered unsuspectingly into Parfums et Senteurs du Pays Basque, the ‘lair’ of Master Perfumer, Christian Louis. This dynamic gentleman – one of only 27 parfumeurs in France – twirled each of us around, looked into our eyes (quite a joy for my daughter and I but a little surprising for my son and husband!), looked us up and down, and then chose the perfume that he felt fitted each of us.

“Then he tipped our heads down and sprayed the scent onto the backs of our heads, under the hair. According to Monsieur Louis, it’s the best place for it. The scent sprayed here will last for up to six hours.

“Monsieur Louis’ perfumes are made just a few miles from Espelette and sold in Paris, online, and in boutiques across the Basque region (www.parfumsonline.com).”

Kathleen Peddicord

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Kathleen Peddicord

Kathleen Peddicord

Kathleen Peddicord has covered the live, retire, and do business overseas beat for more than 30 years and is considered the world's foremost authority on these subjects. She has traveled to more than 75 countries, invested in real estate in 21, established businesses in 7, renovated historic properties in 6, and educated her children in 4.

Kathleen has moved children, staff, enterprises, household goods, and pets across three continents, from the East Coast of the United States to Waterford, Ireland... then to Paris, France... next to Panama City, where she has based her Live and Invest Overseas business. Most recently, Kathleen and her husband Lief Simon are dividing their time between Panama and Paris.

Kathleen was a partner with Agora Publishing’s International Living group for 23 years. In that capacity, she opened her first office overseas, in Waterford, Ireland, where she managed a staff of up to 30 employees for more than 10 years. Kathleen also opened, staffed, and operated International Living publishing and real estate marketing offices in Panama City, Panama; Granada, Nicaragua; Roatan, Honduras; San Miguel de Allende, Mexico; Quito, Ecuador; and Paris, France.

Kathleen moved on from her role with Agora in 2007 and launched her Live and Invest Overseas group in 2008. In the years since, she has built Live and Invest Overseas into a successful, recognized, and respected multi-million-dollar business that employs a staff of 35 in Panama City and dozens of writers and other resources around the world.

Kathleen has been quoted by The New York Times, Money magazine, MSNBC, Yahoo Finance, the AARP, and beyond. She has appeared often on radio and television (including Bloomberg and CNBC) and speaks regularly on topics to do with living, retiring, investing, and doing business around the world.

In addition to her own daily e-letter, the Overseas Opportunity Letter, with a circulation of more than 300,000 readers, Kathleen writes regularly for U.S. News & World Report and Forbes.

Her newest book, "How to Retire Overseas: Everything You Need to Know to Live Well (for Less) Abroad," published by Penguin Random House, is the culmination of decades of personal experience living and investing around the world.

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