Corn.
Just saying it feels dull.
Let’s try Spanish: maíz.
That already sounds more interesting.
But how intriguing is corn, really?
That depends on where you live and what you eat.
Growing up with family in the Midwest, specifically Wisconsin, I didn’t think much of corn. To me, it was all about the phrase “knee-high by July” and enjoying corn on the cob slathered in warm butter.
For 40 years, that was my entire relationship with corn. Not exactly thrilling.
Here, corn is everywhere. It’s a staple of the diet, second only to rice, and pops up across the landscape—in backyards, along the side of the road, even in chicken coops. It also dominates restaurant menus, earning its place as Panama’s culinary king.
The corn grown here is tougher than the sweet, tender variety I knew in the Midwest. But Panamanians are inventive and resourceful. If nature provides, they find a way to make the most of it. In Panama, that means turning corn into delicious, memorable dishes.
Corn takes some effort to prepare, but the results are worth it. You can grow corn almost anywhere—a farm, a backyard, or even in pots—and it only takes about three months to mature. When the tops turn dark, it’s time to harvest.
Then comes the shucking and stripping of the kernels. To grind the corn, you can use a machine called a maquina de moler, which simplifies the task. Once the corn is ground, mix it with salt and any juice that came out during grinding. From there, it’s time to decide what’s on the menu.
Torrejitas De Maíz Nuevo
This is one of the simplest yet tastiest snacks in Panama. All you need is ground corn, hot oil, and a spoon.
Drop a spoonful of batter into the oil, flip it when it turns golden, and serve warm. You can add sugar, milk, or butter to the batter if you like, but fresh corn by itself is unbeatable.
Bollo
Bollo is another easy dish, though it requires the right husk for wrapping the ground corn. The husk should include the soft closing end to keep the batter contained.
Fill three-quarters of the husk with corn, fold it over, and tie it with a string made from the husk. Boil the packages in a crowded pot, and once the corn sticks together, it’s ready.
Feeling adventurous? Add coconut, butter, or milk to the mix for extra flavor.
Tamales
Tamales are a beloved Panamanian dish, often sold in small restaurants called fondas. They come in two options—pork or chicken—making ordering easy. But making tamales? That’s a whole-day event.
After preparing the corn, the next step is cooking the meat and a traditional sauce called guiso. Made with ají peppers, this bright red sauce surprisingly contains no tomatoes. Some of the guiso is mixed with the meat to keep it moist.
Meanwhile, banana and bijao leaves (a relative of the banana plant) are trimmed and prepped for wrapping.
Place a scoop of corn batter on the bijao leaf, add meat, and top it with a bit of guiso. Wrap it like a gift, tie it with a string, and boil until the batter is firm. Color-coded strings often indicate the meat inside each tamale.
Serve fresh or refrigerate for later.
Serén
Serén is a hearty soup, similar to posole, and a staple in Panama’s Chiriquí region.
It starts with the same corn batter mixed with salt. Beef ribs, the traditional meat for this dish, are cooked with garlic, onions, ají peppers, salt, and pepper. Once the meat is tender, it’s combined with the corn batter and simmered until the soup thickens.
Tortilla Asada
A breakfast favorite, tortilla asada is a grilled corn cake about the size of a frisbee. It’s dense and filling—enough to power you through the day. Pour the batter about two inches thick into a pan or mold and cook until golden brown.
Enjoy it warm with a cup of coffee to kick-start your morning.
Sincerely,
Rebecca Teeters
Contributor, Panama Letter
