Ireland was where my expat journey began, some 20-odd years ago…
My family moved to Waterford, in the sunny Southeast of the Emerald Isle, in 1998, when I was about 8 years old.
Back then I didn’t think about the fact that I was an expat, and the choice of location wasn’t up to me…
Now, as an adult revisiting my one-time home, I can see all the reasons someone might want to settle on this friendly little island…
First, perhaps foremost, is the language—the fact that you wouldn’t have to deal with learning another language in your new home overseas. There are only a few countries in the world that speak English, and this is one of them.
That’s not to say there won’t be an adjustment to the language, though… I often make the joke that just because the Irish speak English doesn’t mean you’ll understand them. The delightful accents and sayings here might throw you at first, but once your ear adapts, you’ll learn to love the particular way of speaking that the Irish have.
The heritage is another factor. So many of us North Americans can trace our roots back to Ireland, and that connection to the past can be a powerful tug to head back to the homeland. After arriving, we shared a shuttle with a Canadian couple who were visiting because the guy’s grandfather had helped build the cabinets for the Titanic. They began their tour of family history in Belfast, where the Titanic was built, and were planning to visit Cork, the final pick-up spot before it set off across the Atlantic.
The history here is fascinating and ubiquitous… you can’t go far without seeing a castle, a ruin, walled city, a monastery, or church of historical significance. It’s remarkable how many claims to fame little Waterford has (beyond crystal), and the city is working hard to bring it all to the fore and make it a tourist destination. The Viking triangle is well worth a visit if you’re in the region.
When it comes to the arts, Ireland has produced more legendary authors and poets than most other countries can claim. Following in their footsteps, visiting the library at Trinity College to see the stacks and the Book of Kells is a treat for booklovers.
The food is another reason to love Ireland, though maybe not as obvious. Ireland isn’t renowned for haute cuisine, but it’s got its own homey charm. And they happen to excel here in all the dishes I particularly enjoy—creamy soups, beef and lamb stews, stuffing, shepherd’s pie, sausages, roasts, and, of course, potatoes. Gravy is a mainstay… and it’s oh so good…
One unique aspect of Irish gastronomy is the carvery. I had never heard of this before we moved here, and I’ve seen it rarely since moving away. If you’ve spent time in the U.K., you might have come across it.
Essentially a buffet, it begins with a giant roast meat or two—usually roast beef and ham. You’re served by the carver, who carves off a slice of whatever you want (hence the carvery), and you proceed down the line to fill your plate with potatoes (usually at least three ways), stuffing, veg, Yorkshire pudding, and top it off with abundant gravy. Sometimes there are some other mains offered, a chicken breast, a slice of local hake or salmon, a curry, etc. Plus a soup, and the obligatory brown bread. You usually fill your plate with as much as you want for a flat fee.
It’s magnificent.
When my mother was pregnant with my brother here, she ate nothing but mashed potatoes and gravy—she’d send us out for a plate of just that. By the time he was born, they knew us well.
I misspoke when I said Irish food isn’t internationally known, as, of course, Irish beef and dairy is exported all over the world. The milk, cream, butter, and ice cream is second-to-none, and the beef is famously some of the best in the world, thanks to all that rain—the grass is so plentiful it’s a year-round feast for the cattle.
Ireland is known for its greenery but less so for the rest of its natural features, which is a shame. The wild coasts, the craggy cliffs, the rolling hills, and the dense forests are all just as worth your attention. If you enjoy nature walks and hiking, this is a wonderful destination.
And you’re never far from water here, even if you’re in the dead center of the island it’s only ever an hour or so to get to the coast. Rivers crisscross the island, as well, and if you enjoy boating, this is a great place to be based. Sailing is a popular sport, especially in the south.
While I wouldn’t personally recommend swimming, the Irish are enthusiastic sea swimmers—even in the depths of winter. You can even surf the mighty Atlantic waves on the west coast.
The endless space is something I never relished (or even noticed) in my youth, but as the world becomes ever more crowded and developed, the wide-open expanses—miles and miles of uninterrupted views of nature, not a building to be seen—is a glory to behold.
The Irish themselves are a reason to come to Ireland. Famously friendly, welcoming, charming, funny… Just being around the people here is a joy.
The climate, of course, leaves something to be desired for most… it’s pretty cold and grey year-round. Even at the height of summer, it’s never hot here. On the other hand, you’ll never see snow here either. The dependability of the weather, at least, can’t be denied. You’ll see plenty of rain—which, if you’re a gardener, might be a dream come true!
What drove me nuts about Ireland when I lived here was how antiquated everything was. Nowadays, Ireland is much more modernized, which makes life a lot more convenient, especially for those of us who were used to high levels of American convenience before coming.
To retire to Ireland used to be easy… but a few years ago they implemented a new discouraging set of requirements. They want you to show 50,000 euros a year in personal income, 100k for a couple. Plus, they want to see a lump sum of cash somewhere that you could fall back on in case of emergency. The amount isn’t set, but it’s meant to be enough to buy a home here (the average for which is 345,000 euros in 2025).
Plus, the cost of living here is famously one of the highest in the EU. Although you could certainly live on less than the stipulated 4,000 euros a month, it’s said that Ireland is the second most expensive country in the EU, with average prices 40% higher than those of other countries. I have to say, though, that eating out here was much cheaper than prices I’m used to. Thanks to those two downsides, Ireland might make more sense for some as a part-time location, but I recommend taking a good look at it—this little island has a lot to offer the prospective expat.
Bonne route,
Kat Kalashian
Editor, In Focus: Europe
