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"With that kind of translation, you figure we're probably in Asia, and we are. We're in Tonghai, in Yunnan province in southwestern China. Two years ago I wrote about Yunnan province, suggesting that Kunming and/or Dali would be fine places to live part of the year.

"Now we're back in the area. Look at a map, stick the point of a compass in Kunming, and draw a circle with a 300-kilometer radius, more or less.

"You've just circled what may be Asia's best up-and-coming retirement area, call it central Yunnan. Besides Kunming and Dali, there's Lijiang, Shangri-la, Tonghai (where we are right now), Jianshui, Geiju, Yuanyang, and more.

"Start with weather. Central Yunnan comes close to eternal spring. The area suffers none of the hot and sticky farther south or the cold and icy farther north.

"Move on to cost of living. Central Yunnan offers real bargains. Vicki and I routinely eat a Chinese breakfast for a buck or two, and a full splurge dinner for two with beer in a family-run restaurant is US$4 to US$7. Our center-city hotel, one of the priciest in Tonghai, costs US$10 a night for a double. The very best hotel in town, a 'national four-star standard,' has 17 floors, 15 restaurants/food areas, pool, bowling alley, night club, and so on, and costs US$30. A cab across town costs a dollar or two, and a bus to Kunming (130 kilometers) about US$7.

"You can spend less if you work at it. You can also spend more, as the boom here offers more and more high-end choice.

"To come and spend part of the year in central Yunnan, you'll have to be a pioneer. Vicki and I have been in Tonghai for a week now, and we have yet to see another Westerner. But I think the challenge might pay off. China looks to tomorrow, and it's fun being around so much enthusiasm.

"Two years ago, when I first wrote of the region, I mentioned two drawbacks. First, a typical double-entry visa obtained in Thailand was good for six months, with each entry good for only 30 days. With the old visa the longest we could stay was 60 days, plus a bit more with the border run to Hong Kong, Laos, or Vietnam.

"This year we again got our visas in Thailand, but the visas were much improved. We were given a double-entry visa good for six months, with each entry good for 90 days, instead of 30. We're told that the Chinese consulate in the United States might give multiple-entry visas good for one year with each entry good for 90 days.

"With the new visas, spending a large part of the year in China becomes a real possibility.

"The second drawback I mentioned two years ago was the language. At the time I figured you'd have to learn to speak Chinese--tough to do, especially if you're over 40--or wait until more Chinese learned English. We returned to central Yunnan now partly to find out if more English is spoken than before. Answer? Hard to say. Desk clerks in Chinese hotels (as opposed to international hotels), cab drivers, bus drivers, waiters, and sales clerks speak no English at all. Forget it. But, increasingly, it seems, students approach us to chat. And big wigs around town often speak English perfectly. You meet them at construction sites--engineers, I'd guess, or the developers themselves--or in the international hotels or on airplanes.

"You also meet them at banks, and here's my last point. We wanted to find out if Americans can open bank accounts here.

"I remember when a dollar bought around 400 Japanese yen. Back then Japan enjoyed high growth. Exports to the U.S. in the 1950s included flip flops, portable radios, and other low-end merchandise. But by the time I came of age, Japan sold well-built cars, cameras, and electronics. 'Made in Japan' stood for quality and design.

"And the yen went from 400 to 80, where it is today.

"I missed that upward movement of the yen, but we might now have another chance. I think the Chinese yuan could move up at a similar pace. A revaluation of the yuan amounts to as close to a sure thing as one finds in the financial world.

"The Chinese want to make the yuan fully convertible within two to five years. When that happens, the yuan will pop, perhaps from 6.4 to 4. I fully expect the yuan to reach parity with the dollar, 1 to 1, over the next few decades.

"At this point I'm still working on the ins and outs of Chinese bank accounts. I plan to give a full report on the subject at our Retire Overseas Conference in Orlando in October. Meantime, I can tell you that, yes, Americans can open accounts here, no problem. Just present a passport and some cash or traveler's cheques at the Bank of China. They'll convert to yuan and put the money in your account. You'll get a debit card on the spot, to be used at ATMs only in China, and online access to your account.

"One final point. Central Yunnan offers very low cost of living. That low cost will disappear as the yuan appreciates. Best get over here now. Enjoy the low cost today; buy yuan for tomorrow."

Kathleen PeddicordContinue Reading:

 

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"Talk about complicated travel. We arrived in Tonghai with two pages from a Lonely Planet edition of 10 years ago. That's it. China can change more in 10 days than other countries change in 10 years.

"We quickly discovered the bus station had moved and that the hotel we wanted, near the bus station, had disappeared.

"We only speak pantomime-and-smile Chinese. We were stuck. Signs were all in Chinese, people around us spoke only Chinese. Our map was out of date, the cab stand was empty, hotels were far off--if, in fact, there were any hotels.

"What to do? And what were we doing in Tonghai in the first place?

"I'll answer the second question first.

"Tonghai offers hill tribe and Han culture, natural beauty (lakes, mountains, pristine vegetable farms), old architecture, and lively markets. In addition Tonghai has two tourist highlights.

"First, a nearby Mongol village claims to date back to the reign of Kublai Khan. Village women still wear traditional Mongol dress and live with their families in mud homes similar to those the great Khan must have seen over 700 years ago. I took a picture for you.

"Tonghai's second tourist setting, Xiushan Park, is a lush holy mountain park overlooking the town center. Some 2,000 years ago locals started building temples up there. Most of the temples were restored over the past 30 years. Several miles of trails wind through the forest; a Buddhist or Tao temple awaits after every turn. Locals climb the steep paths to worship. Besides the temples the forest offers dozens of species of birds.

"Finally, we're here in Tonghai because we need to return to nearby Kunming to meet up with French friends from Paris. We arrived in China a week ahead of our friends. Tonghai looked like a unique, doable spot to pass the interim.

"Doable, that is, until we lost our orientation at the bus station.

"The bus driver must have noticed us looking around in a daze. He came over to give us a hand. I said 'Tonghai' and pointed in different directions. He picked up on what I wanted. He motioned for us to go out the gate and turn left.

"That was a start; at least we knew generally how to get to town.

"Once out the gate a cab came by. But he'd speak Chinese, what would we tell him? We decided to walk toward town and hope a hotel would appear.

"We walked for two blocks with our lightweight packs. Nothing.

"Then Vicki had an idea: Show the Lonely Planet pages to someone local. Some of the street names were in Chinese characters. We doubted any of the hotels still existed, but maybe if we found the general area other hotels would be nearby.

"Vicki entered a high-end bag shop and showed the Chinese characters to the woman there. The woman pointed which way to go and we were on our way. After every block or two we asked again and again, and we were pointed roughly in the same direction. Keep walking. Wonderful.

"These locals could read, and, even more, they understood what we wanted. They were able and willing to point. I found I could work with the folks in this town.

"After two or three blocks, Vicki said, 'That looks like a hotel.' I took a photo for you.

"The characters on the door were all Chinese. But there was a lobby, stairs going up, and a reception desk with someone behind it. We entered and were offered a double room with private bath, firm beds, and, much to our surprise, a computer with broadband connection. We took it.

"We dropped our bags in the room and went out to eat. We were hungry after our walk, so we entered a nearby restaurant and pointed at pictures of food. Vicki, a vegetarian, noticed a woman making dumplings with what looked like spinach. She ordered some. The noodles I'd pointed to turned out to be tossed in a peanut sauce. What a find, and all vegetarian. We ordered a second helping of the dumplings. Luck is our friend.

"We returned to our hotel, got cleaned up after our journey, and headed out to look around. Among other things we wanted to find out what it might be like to live in this part of China, and whether anyone speaks English.

"More later..."

Kathleen PeddicordContinue Reading:

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May 12, 2011:

"Kathleen, just wondering how big the lots are at Los Islotes that you wrote about recently?"

--Aldo F., United States

The lots in Phase 1 of Los Islotes range from 1/8 acre to 3/4 acre, depending on the section. More information available here.Continue Reading:

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"Over the last four years, making my plans, estimating what I might need/earn/spend living here in China, was one thing. Arriving here and seeing how things really pan out is another. I have been here for 35 days as of this writing, and I'm beginning to relax.

"I have identified a half-dozen ways to make money here to supplement my retirement funds (more on that later).

"More immediately exciting is that my health has improved dramatically since I got here at the end of March. I have been walking, taking public transportation, and getting out for several hours every day. I have lost about 5 kg in the last 35 days. My blood sugar levels have fallen from the 300s down to an average of under 150. I was walking in the park today, and I actually felt like running. I didn't because I didn't want to set off a panic among the thousands of Chinese watching me. But what a great feeling to have the inclination.

"Reinventing my life here in China is requiring big adjustments, yes, but life back in the States is going to require big adjustments soon, as well. The social, political, and financial challenges that I see coming in the United States in the next few years will make the '60s (both the 1860s and the 1960s) look like calms before the storm.

"You may not have considered China as a place to retire, and this isn't everyone's cup of tea, but I see big advantages here, for an improved lifestyle, for a reduced cost of living, and for a big adventure. For this 65-year-old, the idea of enjoying my final years in this exotic environment was irresistible."

Kathleen Peddicord

Editor's Note: China is one of the 20 destinations we will feature as part of our Retire Overseas Conference program taking place in Orlando Oct. 14-16. Full details are here.Continue Reading:

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Jan. 12, 2011:

"Kathleen, how much stuff do I have to wade through to find the top retirement havens compared? Can you just break things down, as you said you would do, and get to the point?"

--James B., United States

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Kathleen Peddicord

Kathleen Peddicord is the founder of the Live and Invest Overseas publishing group. With more than 25 years experience covering this beat, Kathleen reports daily on current opportunities for living, retiring, and investing overseas in her free e-letter.

Her book, How To Retire Overseas—Everything You Need To Know To Live Well Abroad For Less, was recently released by Penguin Books.

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