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Home Countries Portugal

History And Culture In Lisbon, Portugal

This Euro-Capital City Deserves Much More Attention Than It Gets

Kathleen Peddicord by Kathleen Peddicord
Apr 19, 2022
in Portugal, Travel
0
Rossio Square, Lisbon, Portugal

Adobe Stock/Bogdan Lazar

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Arriving this morning fresh from the colonies to the point where explorers took off to discover them, I’m reminded why we’ve named Portugal the world’s best place to live or retire overseas for nine years running.

We’ll be showcasing all that this hugely historic and warmly welcoming and sublimely affordable country has to offer during our sold-out Live And Invest In Portugal Conference kicking off bright and early Wednesday morning.

A primary focus will be the country’s sun-drenched Algarve coast, but we’ll shine a light on its capital city, as well, which deserves far more attention than it gets.

For a city devastated two-and-a-half centuries ago by Europe’s most destructive earthquake, Lisbon hasn’t done badly.

The Reconstruction Of Lisbon

Destruction means reconstruction and that gave the Marquis de Pombal, Lisbon‘s reconstructor-in-chief, his chance to build the world’s first grid-based capital. Today Lisbon is what New York might have been had a cultivated 18th-century nobleman been in charge of planning.

The broad, placid waters of the Tagus River remain Lisbon‘s foreground, but beyond now stands the finest of Pombal’s colonnaded squares known as the Praça do Comercio, or Black Horse Square, after the equestrian statue of King Jose I in its center. Locals call it the Terreiro de Paço. One magnificent square, among the finest in the world, with three names. From here, two broad avenues lead through the city’s principal restaurant and shopping area to another fine square known as the Rossio.

people walking around the plaza do comercio in lisbon
Praca Do Comercio, Lisbon, Portugal

From that point, the broad Avenida da Liberdade, the city’s principal artery, climbs straight for over a mile to a big public park named after Britain’s King Eduardo VII. Well shaded by trees from the summer sun, it offers strollers broad sidewalks decorated with intricate mosaics of tiny black and white stones carefully tapped into place by an army of municipal workers. Rickety varicolored old wooden trams ply the streets along with open horse-drawn fiacres. Kiosks offer alcoholic beverages and sweet treats.

Looking down over Lisbon‘s agreeable center from the east is the city’s Romanesque cathedral, standing on a rocky summit amid the ruins of St. George’s Castle. Although badly damaged in the earthquake of 1755, it has been expertly restored and contains a magnificent organ with rows of golden trumpets facing each other across the nave.

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Below the cathedral and close to the river’s edge is a portion of old Lisbon that escaped the earthquake’s shock, the medieval Alfama. It is a sharp reminder of the four centuries Lisbon spent under Moorish rule until captured by King Afonso I in 1147, a neighborhood of narrow, winding streets, frequent flights of stairs, and tall, white Arabian buildings.

The site of a fish market in the morning, it becomes at night the place to dine in its many little restaurants while listening to singers clad in long black gowns chanting the traditional sad Portuguese folk songs known as fado, or fate.

West from Black Horse Square is the Jerónimos Monastery, the finest surviving example of the typically Portuguese Manueline Gothic style, featuring elaborately decorated arches and pillars with nautical motifs.

Complementing the monastery is the nearby Tower of Belem, a Manueline fort on the tiny peninsula off the banks of the Tagus. This was the last landmark seen by Portuguese explorers as they sailed west or south to discover the world.

Portugal marked the 500th anniversary of Prince Henry the Navigator’s death in 1960 by erecting alongside a monument depicting the prince standing on the prow of one of his ships boldly pointing ahead.

Dominating this end of Lisbon‘s waterfront is the enormous suspension bridge connecting both banks of the Tagus, first completed in 1966. It is now backed by a second lower and longer bridge a few miles east.

Another Lisbon treasure not to be overlooked is the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, which houses the personal art collection of the man once considered to be the richest in the world thanks to his 5% stake in most of the Middle East’s oil fields. Gulbenkian collected pre-Revolutionary Louis XIV to XVI furniture, gold coins, oriental carpets, and two Rembrandts. Because he left so much money to Portugal, Gulbenkian also financed a modern art collection built up by curators after the Salazar regime Gulbenkian favored had collapsed. I am not sure the old oilman would have approved.

Sincerely,
Kathleen Peddicord signature
Kathleen Peddicord
Founding Publisher, Overseas Opportunity Letter

Tags: 'Travel In Europe'expats in Lisbonexpats in portugallive and invest in portugalliving in Europeliving in Lisbonliving in portugalPaul Lewistravel in Lisbontravel in portugal
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Kathleen Peddicord

Kathleen Peddicord

Kathleen Peddicord has covered the live, retire, and do business overseas beat for more than 30 years and is considered the world's foremost authority on these subjects. She has traveled to more than 75 countries, invested in real estate in 21, established businesses in 7, renovated historic properties in 6, and educated her children in 4.

Kathleen has moved children, staff, enterprises, household goods, and pets across three continents, from the East Coast of the United States to Waterford, Ireland... then to Paris, France... next to Panama City, where she has based her Live and Invest Overseas business. Most recently, Kathleen and her husband Lief Simon are dividing their time between Panama and Paris.

Kathleen was a partner with Agora Publishing’s International Living group for 23 years. In that capacity, she opened her first office overseas, in Waterford, Ireland, where she managed a staff of up to 30 employees for more than 10 years. Kathleen also opened, staffed, and operated International Living publishing and real estate marketing offices in Panama City, Panama; Granada, Nicaragua; Roatan, Honduras; San Miguel de Allende, Mexico; Quito, Ecuador; and Paris, France.

Kathleen moved on from her role with Agora in 2007 and launched her Live and Invest Overseas group in 2008. In the years since, she has built Live and Invest Overseas into a successful, recognized, and respected multi-million-dollar business that employs a staff of 35 in Panama City and dozens of writers and other resources around the world.

Kathleen has been quoted by The New York Times, Money magazine, MSNBC, Yahoo Finance, the AARP, and beyond. She has appeared often on radio and television (including Bloomberg and CNBC) and speaks regularly on topics to do with living, retiring, investing, and doing business around the world.

In addition to her own daily e-letter, the Overseas Opportunity Letter, with a circulation of more than 300,000 readers, Kathleen writes regularly for U.S. News & World Report and Forbes.

Her newest book, "How to Retire Overseas: Everything You Need to Know to Live Well (for Less) Abroad," published by Penguin Random House, is the culmination of decades of personal experience living and investing around the world.

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