If you stand on the Panama Canal side of the Causeway and look straight out into the bay, you’ll see a large landmass 20 kilometers off the mainland rising out of the water. That’s Isla Taboga.
This 12-square-kilometer island situated in the Gulf of Panama in the Pacific Ocean is 30 minutes away by ferry and home to the closest desirable beaches to Panama City.
This is the most convenient beach escape for residents of Panama City. You needn’t worry about traffic or delays on the weekends or holidays.
The beaches on Taboga are beautiful—some are sandy, others rocky… they’re pristine… and the water is a sparkling blue-green.
While the island doubles in population on the weekends and holidays, there are quieter, more private corners of Taboga where you’ll find empty beaches.
San Pedro has just under 2,000 residents and is the only town on the island. The locals take great care of their home—flowers line the streets, there are plazas and
benches for relaxing and enjoying views of the Pacific, sculptures and religious statues shrouded in roses are around every corner, and the streets are swept every day.
The town is picturesque and easily accessible on foot or bike. No one owns a car here. They walk, bike, or—the preferred mode of transportation for those who can afford it—they get around in a golf cart or mule. You’ll see these little vehicles all over the island.
A laid-back, island vibe can be felt everywhere you go. Life moves more slowly. There’s no rush.
Restaurants, bars, and kiosks line the streets and the beaches, selling seafood caught by local fishermen that very morning.
The homes in town are beautiful, each a different color, each unique, many with manicured bushes and flowers growing in front. Mediterranean-style villas are a common theme, and there are a few wooden homes left behind from the days of U.S. occupation.
If you make Taboga your home, your recreation options will revolve around the sea. You can swim, kayak, stand-up paddle, fish, jet ski, dive, boat, and enjoy any other aquatic activity. On land you can hike a couple different trails or go birdwatching.
Isla Taboga is nicknamed the Island of Flowers. It’s also an island of rich history. In town there’s a 16th century church (the second-oldest operational church in the Western Hemisphere), Francisco Pizzaro’s home, the house where French artist Paul Gauguin lived for a time, and if you hike to the highest point on the island you’ll find a World War II bunker left behind by the U.S. military.
If you’re after an ocean lifestyle in a destination that has the feel of a small village and that’s close to Panama City, you owe it to yourself to join the growing community of expats who have found their dream life on Isla Taboga.
Getting here is simple. Two ferry companies provide service seven days a week to and from the island. Taboga Express charges $20 round-trip and Barcos Calypso charges $14 round-trip. Both leave from Causeway Amador and take 30 to 45 minutes to reach Taboga.
You’ll need to buy your tickets on the companies’ websites ahead of time as the ferries fill up quickly. The boat ride to Isla Taboga is beautiful. You’ll pass by dozens of gigantic cargo ships waiting their turn to pass through the Canal.
You’ll get dropped off on Taboga’s main pier in town near Playa Honda. There’s a police checkpoint here, and they will search your bags.
Some hotels will pick you up and drop you off at the pier. If you have a reservation, ask the staff if they offer this service.
Like all of Panama, Taboga has a tropical maritime climate with two seasons. The dry season (“summer”) starts in January and ends in April, and the wet season (“winter”) is from May to December.
The average daily temperature is 83°F (28°C) and at night, temperatures hover around 75°F (24°C).
It’s hot and humid year-round, but the dry season breezes cool things off a bit.
As is true for all islands, many expenses on Isla Taboga are higher than on the mainland. That said, there are savings because the lifestyle is more natural: You won’t be tempted to splurge on entertainment simply because it doesn’t exist.
Utilities like gas, electricity, and water are cheaper here than in Panama City, as is rent.
Rent for a two-bedroom home in town will set you back about $500 to $1,000 a month. Budget at least $800 a month for a high-quality, comfortable rental.
The island is breezy and you can probably get by without air conditioning during the day by leaving your windows open. Using air conditioning only at night, your electricity bill will be around $120 a month. If you run air conditioning throughout the day, budget much higher.
Tap water on Taboga isn’t potable and you’ll need to prepare or buy your drinking water. Factor this into your budget, too.
It can cost as much as $30 to have items brought over by ferry from Panama City. You can eliminate this expense if you own a boat.
A meal for two at a mid-range restaurant costs about $50, or $15 to $20 a plate. A national beer will set you back $2 to $4 depending on the restaurant or bar, and a cocktail usually costs $6 to $10.
Seafood is expensive, and many ingredients need to be brought over from the city. Delivery costs are factored into the price of each dish. You can find cheaper options at the kiosks near the beach.
If you’ll be hiring a housekeeper, expect to pay $35 for an eight-hour day.
And, if you’re a registered resident of Taboga, you’ll get a discount on ferry prices and will only pay $8 for a one-way ticket.
A couple renting their home should budget about $2,500 a month for a well-appointed lifestyle on Taboga. Homeowners will spend around $1,600 a month.
Sincerely,
Gabrielle Wells
Contributor, Panama Letter
