I first visited this expat haven in 2002, and found it sleepy beyond imagination.
“I’m not old enough to live here,” was what I said back then.
Big city life still had me under its spell. The half-speed pace I found here was just too slow.
Nearly two decades later, it seems this haven and I have met in the middle.
I’ve slowed down to a respectable pace for a 50-something and this city has blossomed.
Now I visit often to connect with old friends and enjoy the relaxing pace.
Sometimes I succumb to the laid-back yoga-hippy vibe and do nothing.
Sometimes I head uptown to hear live jazz.
Every part of town is different. The people are friendly, the weather is perfect, and the cuisine is legendary. The best thing of all… nobody is in a hurry.
I’ve lived over half my adult life overseas and this city is my top pick for anyone considering an overseas retirement in this part of the world.
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Here’s 4 reasons why…
1. Size Matters
With a population of just over 1.2 million, this is not a big city by the region’s standards. The nation’s capital boasts 12 million inhabitants, a figure considered an understatement by folks who live there.
Here, only a few buildings could be considered high-rise, and even those are less than 30 floors. Chinese-style shop-house architecture is the order of the day, with some modern developments mixed in. Roads are fairly good, but the popularity of this area as a getaway spot strains the infrastructure on big holiday weekends.
The city viewed from a higher elevation looks like a collection of neighborhoods that grew into each other to fill in the river valley. It’s pretty busy here, but not too crazy.
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2. You Can Live Like A Local
While many tourists visit this city, foreigners living here don’t have the feeling they are tourists.
In the country’s big seaside resort towns, large expat populations have formed. They enjoy the permanent vacation lifestyle but will always feel like tourists.
Here, foreigners live all over town, they experience many different lifestyles, and they connect to local culture in a more meaningful way. This is not a “tourists-who-stayed” kind of town.
3. It’s Plugged-In
Many expats and retirees have chosen to live on some of the country’s island paradises. This city is the opposite of an island. Rather than suffer island-style isolation, residents enjoy total connection to the rest of the world. Internet connections are high-speed and reliable, great roads lead in every direction, and an ever-expanding international airport is at your disposal. The overnight train to the country’s capital is a trip everyone should take at least once.
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4. Savor The Quiet Life
Nobody comes here for the nightlife. Bars and restaurants close around midnight, and everything gets wrapped up before 2 a.m. There is no real red-light district, but there are plenty of friendly pubs and a surprising number of live music venues.
But if all-night go-go bars or dance clubs featuring famous DJs is your thing, then this isn’t the spot for you.
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What It Really Costs… And Who Comes Here…
This is a wonderful city and you get a lot of lifestyle for your money. But it’s not as super-cheap as elsewhere in this country and this region can be… despite what you may read elsewhere.
In my opinion, you can live a comfortable life here for about $1,500 a month. A retiree with a $2,000 monthly budget could live extremely well.
Furnished studios are available from as little as $300 a month on a long-term lease. For $600 a month—on a minimum one-year lease—you can rent a modern, furnished, two-bedroom, two-bathroom condo in a complex with a pool, gym, and 24-hour security.
A conservative count of expats in this city today is 30,000. They come from all imaginable walks of life… and many have reinvented themselves in their new home…
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I know a stone mason who became an interior designer. I know a ship’s-captain-turned-English-teacher. I know a celebrity hairdresser who owns a bungee jump concession. Diversity is what makes an expat community, especially this one.
Though the majority of expats live full-time here, it also draws the snowbird set…
A while back I met Richard and Gary, a couple of 70-somethings from Minnesota. Every year they come here to wait out the harsh winter back home.
Both of these gentlemen are motorcycle enthusiasts and spend time at one of several pubs that cater to their hobby. The city’s bike week, held in December, is the height of their winter season.
“Some people go to Florida in the winter,” says Gary. “I’ve been to Florida… it ain’t like here.”
“I get my bag near the door when I hear the first weather report of snow flurries,” says Richard. “There’s just no need to put up with 30-below.”
Sincerely,
Bart Walters
Contributor, Overseas Living Letter
