I am still surprised by the reactions I get when I tell people I live in Medellín, Colombia.
A few years ago, my friends and family expressed fear, concern, and disbelief. Today I hear admiration, curiosity, and even a little envy.
Medellín has come a long way in a short amount of time. No other city has graduated from the most dangerous in the world to one of the most highly acclaimed in so few years…
Medellín’s dark days are long gone, although, if you watch certain TV programs and movies, you might not believe me. In today’s media, bad news travels fast, and good news is hard to find.
I’m here to share the great news about Medellín, which you probably won’t hear elsewhere, along with some of the challenges you might experience if you choose, like my husband and I have, to have an adventure here.
Medellín’s benefits far outweigh its downsides, but just like any city, it’s not perfect. With some common sense and a solid sense of humor, you can navigate life in Medellín with grace and ease.
The Pros And Cons
It’s difficult to narrow Medellín’s list of positives, but here’s a start:
- Friendly—both locals and expats…
- Low real estate prices (but increasing yearly)…
- Colombian culture: the paisa traditions, music, and dance, plus many holidays…
- Lifestyle options: join an expat group, live like a local, or a combination…
- Arts and entertainment: museums, theaters, symphonies, cinemas, etc…
- Dining: from Colombian típico restaurants to molecular gastronomy and everything in between…
- Shopping: small tiendas to big box stores and huge shopping malls…
- Modern grocery stores similar to Whole Foods or farmers’ markets for the freshest choices…
- Transportation—the best in Colombia…
- Overall cost of living: extremely reasonable, even in the most expensive areas…
On the other hand, here are some challenges to consider:
- Governmental issues, including residency visa requirements, taxes, and setting up utilities…
- Language: Spanish is the official language, but there’s more English every year. A basic understanding of Spanish will improve your lifestyle…
- Pollution: because the city is located in a valley, air pollution can be an issue. The leaders are addressing the problem but need to do more…
- Noise: loud music and noisy trucks and buses can be irritating…
- Traffic: with millions of people, the traffic can be bad. Again, the city is addressing the problem, but with Medellín’s geography, traffic can be difficult…
- Construction: both a pro and a con—building means growth, but it also means noise, dust, and inconvenience…
Medellín is divided into 16 large communes or neighborhoods. Each commune is further divided into smaller barrios that are often self-sufficient areas with grocery stores, shopping, and restaurants within walking distance.
The city is also classified by an estrato system based on social and economic status…
While expats live in many different areas, most prefer four specific locations—two of the largest communes in Medellín and two nearby towns. All sales prices are listed in Colombian pesos, although rental rates, especially short-term rentals, may be listed in U.S. dollars.
Let’s dive into each of the top living choices to give you an idea of which could be the best choice for you…
El Poblado
The largest commune in Medellín is also the home to the largest percentage of expats. Most of Poblado is categorized as estratos 5 and 6, so it’s the most expensive commune in the city.
It’s considered the Manhattan of Medellín because it’s the most cosmopolitan and luxurious area in town and the most desirable location for expats and Colombians alike.
With tree-lined streets, al fresco dining of every imaginable type of cuisine, upscale boutique and large mall shopping, and grocery stores rivaling Whole Foods in North America, you won’t want for anything if you live in Poblado.
I chose to live in Poblado because it most resembled my lifestyle in the States and because I hear more English and read more English here than in other areas.
Poblado has hills. Starting on the valley floor, Poblado climbs the eastern mountainside and can be steep in places. As walkability is important to me, I decided to live in the Lalinde barrio.
If you want to avoid hills, consider Manila, Astorga, Patio Bonito, Santa Maria de los Angelas, and Aguacatale, all of which are more level and offer great access to the Metro train system.
The best views can be found higher up the mountain in the Los Balsos, El Tesoro, and Las Lomas neighborhoods. Throughout Poblado you can find high-rises, low-rises, townhomes, and some single-family homes. Near the valley floor, the housing is more traditional, but uphill the majority of residences are skyscrapers.
Five Things To Know About Poblado
- This is the most elite, luxurious location in Medellín…
- It features the largest variety of dining options, from sushi to vegan to steak, and the finest dining in the city…
- Many green spaces, parks, and creeks nearby, perfect for people watching…
- Neighborhoods can be difficult to access due to the elevation…
- It’s home to the largest population of English speakers and expats in Medellín…
Don’t Miss In Poblado
- Shopping: Luxury malls like El Tesoro, Santafé, and Oviedo offer miles of shops, or stroll through the Provenza neighborhood for quaint designer boutiques…
- Fresh food: Every Sunday the farmers’ market in Parque Presidenta offers the freshest fruits, vegetables, coffee, and more. Or Carulla Fresh Market andÉxitostores provide aisle after aisle of everything you need to create your own culinary masterpiece…
- Fine dining: For a multi-course, molecular gastronomy experience, make a reservation at El Cielo. Or visit Frutos del Mar where they have been serving the freshest fish and seafood for over 50 years… or maybe try La Provincia for delicious French fare, all at reasonable prices. Barcal, my favorite Colombian-fusion restaurant, is located in Astorga, where I order the wine pairing with each course for a truly special evening…
Laureles-Estadio
On the valley floor, near one of the largest universities in town, Laureles-Estadio offers walkable living surrounded by parks, outdoor eating, and sports facilities. If you enjoy fútbol, or soccer in North America, you’ll be steps away from the Estadio Atanasio Giradot, where the two local teams play.
The majority of homes here are estratos 4 and 5, so prices are lower than Poblado. There are fewer high-rises and more leafy, residential neighborhoods located on circular roads, which can be confusing. The area is anchored by two large parks and the main thoroughfare, known as La 70, features many restaurants, offering mostly local fare and fast foods.
Five Things To Know About Laureles-Estadio
- There is a public sports complex offering swimming, tennis, gymnastics, basketball, volleyball, and soccer…
- Pontifical Bolivarian University (UPB) offers Spanish lessons for all levels and will help you obtain a student visa to stay in Colombia while you study…
- The population of this area is only 122,972…
- The Metro B Line offers easy access to this commune through the handy Estadio station…
- It was developed in a planned way using innovative urban concepts for the time…
Don’t Miss In Laureles-Estadio
- A fútbol game featuring one of the hometown teams, Atlético Nacional or Independiente Medellín, both members of the Colombia professional football league…
- Menu of the day lunches for US$3 and walking the residential streets while stopping at small stores to buy your weekly groceries and home needs…
- Reposteria Astor, a Medellín landmark, provides a sweet place to enjoy a cup of tinto (black coffee) with a slice of decadent chocolate cake…
- Salud Pan offers a great selection of health food and a restaurant featuring both vegetarian and meat-based dishes. Salud Pan is among the best healthy eating options in Medellín…
Envigado
Technically a separate municipality, this more traditional, working-class community lies directly south of Medellín with a population of 232,900. Ninety-six percent of the housing is estrato 2 to 5, which means sales prices are lower than Laureles (however the rental rates are higher).
Envigado is mostly low-rise residential with few hotels, hostels, and high-rises. However, this area is growing rapidly and currently has 41 new projects under construction, compared with only nine new projects in Laureles.
Five Things To Know About Envigado
- Envigado has its own fútbol team, Envigado Fútbol Club, which sometimes plays at the stadium in Laureles-Estadio…
- It’s famous for keeping the paisa traditions and architecture in tact with a high standard of living…
- It’s home to the largest shopping mall in Colombia—Viva Envigado—featuring hundreds of stores, a modern cinema, amusement park, and several food courts…
- Some suggest the name comes from the large trees that were found in the area and used for rafters (vigas) in home construction…
- Rural Envigado was originally inhabited by wealthy Spanish families whose prosperous residences and farms produced food for all of Antioquia for 150 years…
Don’t Miss In Envigado
- Salado Ecological park, located in rural Envigado, features nature trails and light food options. You can test your skills on the canopy rope course, climbing wall, skateboard park, or outdoor sports complex…
- Otraparte is a cultural center and museum dedicated to Colombian writer and philosopher Fernando González, who was born in Envigado…
- The recently remodeled Parque Envigado, featuring a tiled plaza anchored by the immense Iglesia de Santa Gertrudis (Church of Saint Gertrude), draws families, men playing cards, musicians, and a tremendous Christmas lights display…
- La Calle de Buena Mesa (literally the street of good table) is a grouping of streets lined with a great variety of restaurants including a 50s-style burger joint, Peruvian delicacies, Spanish paella, burgers, pizza, steaks, and more…
- The indoor market where locals shop for meat, eggs, spices, grains, fruits, juices, textiles, live birds, and much more…
Sabaneta
The smallest municipality in the country at only 15 square kilometers, Sabaneta is known as the Vallecito de Encanto, the Charming Little Valley. Although it’s small, it’s growing. In its 31 barrios, 98% of the housing is in estratos 2 to 4. This working-class town maintains a traditional vibe, especially in its town square.
Sabaneta borders Envigado on its southern edge. With a population of only 54,650, you might be surprised to learn that Sabaneta has 43 new construction projects underway, most of which are high-rise residential towers.
Five Things To Know About Sabaneta
- It offers the lowest prices to buy and rent an apartment of the neighborhoods I recommend mostly because it has the lowest estratos. However, homes in estratos 3 and 4 may not be acceptable to some expats…
- You’ll find fewer expats here, and you’ll hear little English. However, it’s quickly growing in popularity among expats looking for a more traditional, authentic experience…
- Your dining options are limited to mostly traditional Colombian food and chain restaurants. Similarly, night life consists of traditional bars, not the high-end clubs and restaurants you’ll find elsewhere…
- The majority of Sabaneta is flat and therefore easier to walk around the neighborhoods. However, you can find steep hills on the edges of town…
- Being a smaller town, Sabaneta also boasts a lower crime rate overall…
Don’t Miss In Sabaneta
- Its main plaza hosts one of the best Christmas lights displays in Medellín. This family-friendly area is surrounded by excellent traditional restaurants, one of which sells the largest buñuelos (fried balls of dough and cheese) around…
- La Barquereña Culture House is home to a music school, symphonic band, dance classes, plastic arts, comics, caricature, folk art, and a theater. Art exhibitions featuring artists from Sabaneta and national and international contributors change monthly…
- Enjoy some of the best authentic Mexican food at El Sombrero, a small, brightly decorated cantina just off the main plaza…
- Mayorca Mega Plaza shopping mall features 400 shops divided into an outlet area and an upscale, name-brand section. You’ll also find a modern movie cinema and extensive food courts. Access this mall from the Metro A Line, at the Itagüí station…
Is Medellín The Place For You?
Only you can answer this question, but Medellín will check your boxes if you:
- Appreciate modern conveniences and state-of-the-art infrastructure, especially in the medical arena…
- Enjoy big-city living and all the amenities that come with it, and you can tolerate noise and traffic…
- Like to interact with friendly locals and are willing to learn some Spanish if you don’t already know it…
- Are comfortable with a small but tight-knit expat community…
- Have patience and a sense of humor…
- Enjoy a variety of foods at reasonable prices…
- Prefer temperate weather year-round, without extreme conditions…
- Appreciate a clean, green, walkable living environment…
Medellín is not for you if you:
- Want a small-town or Spanish-colonial atmosphere, although each barrio has a small town feel within the bigger city of Medellín…
- Hate high-rise living, although other options exist for your consideration…
- Refuse to learn Spanish…
- Are easily frustrated especially when people don’t follow through…
- Need four distinct seasons…
- Hate city traffic and noise…
Medellín offers an easy transition for your overseas adventure. Here you’ll find a first-world city, with every modern convenience you require and expect, and a distinctly different and friendly culture in a South American location only three hours from the States.
There’s only one way to find out whether it’s for you.
Come visit Medellín and see for yourself. I promise that you won’t be disappointed.
Wendy Howarter
