If you’d like to live within easy reach of all the cultural attractions and conveniences of Barcelona but avoid the crowds and high prices, then consider Castelldefels.
This charming coastal town is just 12 miles south of the heart of Barcelona—a 20-minute drive, 30-minute train ride, or 40 minutes on the bus—a trip that can cost as little as 3 euros.
There are two parts to Castelldefels: the main town, which is slightly inland, and Castelldefels beach (each has its own train stop).
Castelldefels proper is largely residential with paved, shaded streets, and pedestrian-friendly areas. There’s a decent selection of small shops, cafés, pharmacies, and greengrocers, mostly housed on the ground-floors of low-rise apartment buildings.
There’s also a mall, Ànec Blau, dinky by U.S. standards but perfectly adequate. It’s got a range of shops—fashion, homewares, phones, jewelry, and more—as well as a large grocery store and cinema.
There’s several dining options too, including a McDonald’s and a Burger King if you’re so inclined. In the main town, dining out at local, casual restaurants is very affordable—especially if you’re used to Barcelona prices. For three diners, sharing generous plates of calamari, shrimp tempura, salad, patatas bravas, and croquetas de jamón, plus a round of drinks and tip, came to just 50 euros ($57).
This is a mostly modern Spanish town though the hilltop castle, a frontier fortress dating back centuries which was once a bastion against Barbary pirates, serves as a reminder of the area’s rich history.
While this part of Castelldefels has its appeal, the real beauty here is the beach. From the old town it’s about a half-hour walk or a 5-minute drive.
Your route will take you past the town’s impressive Olympic Canal. Nestled amongst Mediterranean pine trees, this 1,200-meter stretch of water was created mainly for the canoe races in the ’92 Olympics. Today, you can canoe, kayak, windsurf, wake board, or bob about in a dinghy, making it a major attraction for
watersports enthusiasts. The stadium complex also houses a gym, a pitch and putt course, archery area, and swimming pool.
As you approach the beach, it’s hard not to notice the change in accommodations here… luxurious apartments, walled gardens clad in hot-pink bougainvillea, and plush, gated villas line the pathway to the shore.
Some 66,000 people are residents in Castelldefels, including footballers Lionel Messi and Luís Suárez. It won’t surprise you to learn that this ritzy patch is their neighborhood.
Low-rise, white-washed homes line the wide road opposite the beach and it’s striking just how spotlessly clean this whole area is. It feels super safe too, day or night.
The beach itself is long (it stretches for 3 miles), wide, and great for swimming. It’s well-equipped, with showers, waste bins, and wooden walkways. And, aside from in high summer, it’s quiet. Indeed, many consider Castelldefels to be a sleepy beach town and for much of the year, that’s true.
Along the beachfront you’ll find open-air restaurants where you can while away a few hours taking in the sea-views. Naturally, you’ll pay more here than you would inland but prices are still reasonable. A glass of wine, bottled water, or small beer (caña) is 3 euros ($3.50), a cocktail is 9 euros ($10), and a sharing jug of sangria is 21 euros ($24). Tapas start at around 5 euros ($6), a pizza or salad is 12 euros ($13), seafood dishes—calamari or gambas (shrimp)—is around 14 euros ($16), and desserts run around 10 euros.
When it comes to monthly rentals here, you can find studio apartments for under 900 euros ($1,025), sea-view homes from 1,100 euros ($1,250), and luxurious villas for 18,000 euros ($20,500) (yes, really) a month. Many rentals are seasonal—typically available from September to June—which, if you like the quieter life and don’t mind the cooler temperatures, is a great time to base yourself here.
I checked out a south-facing, sea-view, furnished home with a private terrace, available for 1,350 euros ($1,550) a month. It has two bedrooms, one bathroom, air conditioning, and a storeroom.
If you’re looking to buy here, 130,000 euros ($148k) is a solid budget to start with. Closer to the beach you can find apartments in need of renovation from 179,000 euros ($204k), but for something move-in ready you’re looking at 270,000 euros ($307,000) and up.
Sincerely,
Victoria Harmer
Editor, Overseas Opportunity Letter
