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County Clare, Ireland can be a great place for many retirees. Here’s all you should know about this destination including the cost of living.
County Clare is one of the best kept secrets in Ireland. It’s found in the Mid-West Region
along the country’s west coast and bordered by dramatic cliffs that look out broodingly at the Atlantic Ocean.
Here, among the small coastal towns and lively villages, the true Irish spirit runs strong. West Clare natives are a comically outrageous people with a bizarre sense of humor, always up for “the craic” and a bit of adventure. They have an authenticity that has been sadly lost in other parts of the Emerald Isle.
Aside from its people, culture, and history, Clare entices people in with its natural beauty: long white-sand beaches with surfable waves, rolling sand dunes, and patchwork green fields. The worldfamous Burren National Park, a special region of glaciated karst landscape, is found here as well.
To go along with all this natural abundance, there’s world class golfing, surfing, endless breath-taking hill walks, and even deep-sea fishing off towering cliffs. County Clare holds a near-mythical reputation among those who know it…
It’s where the Irish themselves go when they need a vacation.
The villages of Clare are strung together by narrow hedgerows that burst with wildflowers during the summer. As you travel the winding roads between villages steeped in character, you’ll see bungalows, thatched cottages, donkey sanctuaries, and wild sheep wandering the roads.
Perhaps it’s the postcard-worthy scenery, but there’s something about this region that attracts those of a creative spirit. This is the only place in Ireland with more art galleries than pubs.
Of course, there are pubs, too… but you’ll find that live music dominates, and that every second or third person is a musician or singer.
Only gaining her freedom from the English Empire a hundred years ago, Ireland is a relatively young nation built on millennia of ancient history. The old Ireland that people yearn to see is most evident in County Clare. The people here remain unchanged by the excesses of the Celtic Tiger and the newness of modern Ireland.
West Clare is home to many expats. It’s a great option for those who understand the value of a slower pace of life, who love the wild outdoors but also want to remain close to people who like to laugh, love, and celebrate life.
Living in Clare allows you to connect with a deep feeling of Irishness—that mischievous, eternally young, and slightly irreverent side to ourselves that we all carry in our hearts.
There is a rich life to be found in this nearly secret corner of Europe…
Reviewed By Kathleen Peddicord
Kathleen is the Live and Invest Overseas Founding Publisher. She has more than 30 years of hands-on experience traveling, living, and buying property around the world.
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County Clare is home to the earliest known human settlement in Ireland in the form of cave dwellings dating to 10,500 BC. Successive groups of peoples populated Ireland from the original paleolithic peoples to the Celtic culture adopted around 2,000 BC to Viking settlements in the 800s AD to the Norman and English conquests of Ireland from the 12th century onwards.
Clare is dotted with ruins from the Norman times, castles, monasteries, and old towns, both in use and ruins, strewn across the beautiful countryside like bones of the Earth.
Clare was a bastion of republicanism and rebel fighters during the war of independence a century ago. It was always one of the poorest counties in Ireland and only really came into its own over the past few decades.
Today County Clare has a population of about 120,000 people. Its biggest town is Ennis in the eastern region with a population of 25,000. Kilrush and Ennistymon, with populations of 2,900 and 1,100 respectively, serve as the market towns for West Clare.
Living in Ireland is not cheap by any consideration, but living in Clare can be cheaper than many areas in Ireland. The cost of real estate is high but many of the best amenities in Clare are free.
A single person could get by on 2,500 euros per month or much less if they own their home, but to have a comfortable lifestyle, including rent, you would need at least 3,000 euros to 4,000 euros per month in income.
Except for the cost of real estate and alcohol, the cost of living in Ireland is comparable to most of Western Europe. Here’s an itemized budget on the cost of living in County Clare per month.
Food safety and quality standards are higher in the EU than they are in the States. Irish dairy products, beef, and craft beers are among the best in the world.
There are low-cost German grocery stores, like Aldi and Lidl, though they are in only a few towns like Ennistymon and Kilrush. Here you are offered limited ranges of reasonable-quality, inexpensive groceries and home supplies.
There are many low-cost clothing retailers in County Clare. The best value will be found in Ennis Town, but retailers exist in many villages. There are high-quality boutiques in places you’d never guess they might be.
Electricity costs about 0.34 euros per kilowatt hour. Internet and cable are reasonably priced, too. 35 euros per month for 150 Mbps internet based on 2025 averages. I could get an internet and cable bundle for 55 euros.
A TV license costs 160 euros per year if you own a television. Water is free, but waste disposal is managed by private companies outside the towns. The cost depends on how much waste you produce.
A deli sandwich is about 4 euros. A budget meal is about 8 euros. Midrange meals run about 14 to 24 euros, and fine dining or meals in award- winning restaurants will cost you more than 25 euros for the main course alone.
A pint or glass of wine will cost you about 6 or 8 euros and a cocktail could cost you 7 to 12 euros.
Car insurance will cost you about 1,000 euros initially (more for fully-comprehensive coverage) until you earn a no-claims bonus. Motor tax ranges from 200 to 800 euros per year depending on the carbon dioxide output of the engine.
Petrol costs about 1.73 euros per liter and diesel costs a few cents less. Vehicles are much more fuel-efficient than in the States, with most cars getting between 35 to 60 miles per gallon.
While English is the spoken language in Ireland, anyone who has ever met the Irish will know there is a dizzying array of local accents and dialects that could confound even the most learned English speaker.
Full of colorful idioms, and packed with a warm yet sometimes dark humor, the dry sarcasm of the English spoken in Ireland is legendary.
County Clare is home to strong authentic Irish accents that become more pronounced when talking among locals or whenever in the pub. Irish Gaelic is taught in all schools as a second language. It’s still spoken in day-to-day life in several culturally protected regions in Ireland.
| Expense | Monthly Costs | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Mortgage | – | Not included here as too variable. |
| HOA Fees | €40 to €150 | HOA fees only in some apartment buildings & golf club residences, never in housing estates. |
| Property Taxes | €8 to €40 | 0.18% of value. |
| Transportation | €60 to €220 | €60 for the bus, though public transport is limited to regular bus runs from towns and some irregular feeder busses from small villages. Having a car is advised. |
| Gas | – | Not available on mains in Clare. |
| Electricity | €80 to €200 | |
| Water | – | |
| Cell Phone | €20 | Includes 20 GB data. |
| Internet | €30 | Cost bundled with cable starts at €45. |
| Cable TV | €30 | |
| Household Help | €320 | One day per week at minimum wage (€12.70 per hour). |
| Entertainment | €330 | Eating out twice a week at a mid-range, local restaurant: €30.
Local drinks twice a week at a nearby watering hole: €5 to €6 per drink. Movie theater trip twice a month: €8. |
| Groceries | €240 | Basic items for a couple. |
| Gym Membership | €80 | Depends on gym location and type of membership: €60 to €140 per month per couple. |
| Medical Appointment | €50 | Basic clinic/GP visit. |
| TOTAL | €1,288 to €1,710 |
| Expense | Monthly Costs | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Rent | €800 to €1,400 | €800 in Ennistymon; €1,400 in Lahinch. |
| Transportation | €60 to €220 | €60 for the bus, though public transport is limited to regular bus runs from towns and some irregular feeder busses from small villages. Having a car is advised. |
| Gas | – | Not available on mains in Clare. |
| Electricity | €80 to €200 | |
| Water | – | |
| Cell Phone | €20 | Includes 20 GB data. |
| Internet | €30 | Cost bundled with cable starts at €45. |
| Cable TV | €30 | |
| Household Help | €320 | One day per week at minimum wage (€10.20 per hour). |
| Entertainment | €330 | Eating out twice a week at a mid-range, local restaurant: €30.
Local drinks twice a week at a nearby watering hole: €5 to €6 per drink. Movie theater trip twice a month: €8. |
| Groceries | €240 | Basic items for a couple. |
| Gym Membership | €80 | Depends on gym location and type of membership: €60 to €140 per month per couple. |
| Medical Appointment | €50 | Basic clinic/GP visit. |
| TOTAL | €2,040 to €2,920 |
| Expense | Monthly Costs | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Rent | €500 | Cheapest part of town (still desirable), most basic one-bedroom rental. |
| Transportation | €60 | Cheapest forms of public transport; assuming a bit less movement. |
| Gas | – | |
| Electricity | €80 | |
| Water | – | |
| Cell Phone | €12 | |
| Internet | €30 | |
| Cable TV | – | |
| Entertainment | €180 | Low-cost meal for two: €16.
Local drinks: €9.40 |
| Groceries | €200 | All local-brand items only, shopping markets and local vendors along with grocery stores. |
| TOTAL | €1,062 |
Ireland has a cool temperate maritime climate.
The weather is buffered by the Gulf Stream making summers cooler than in other parts of Europe and the winters are milder. Ireland rarely gets snow, and the temperature is infrequently above 20°C (68°F).
The weather is subject to change, sometimes with every form of weather occurring in the same day.
There are plenty of overcast and rainy days in Ireland… This might be what influenced our indoor pub culture. West Clare in particular is breezy so wind protection is a must.
Facts about weather in Clare:
County Clare is experiencing a surge in interest from people young and old who want to move here to live a better life. The wildness of the Atlantic coastline inspires those of an artistic spirit and those who feel a connection with the ocean.
West Clare has become a mecca for artists, and there are art galleries, studios, and displays in every nook and cranny in every town and village. Ennistymon seems to have nearly as many art galleries as residents, and the local landscape and legends offer inspiration to artists from across the globe.
Bord Failte, the Irish Tourism Board, is actively promoting West Clare as part of their “Wild Atlantic Way” tour of the west coast of Ireland. There are supports and grants available for many types of sustainable tourism activities in the area.
Clare isn’t being ruined by sprawling resort hotels and plastic paddy pubs. Developments are closely monitored by the local council for any negative environmental, social, or cultural impacts.
Holiday homes and retirement locations are being snapped up quickly, so you need to be financially prepared before you start house hunting in earnest. House prices continue to rise in Clare, as her secrets become more widely known.
Tourism: Both international and domestic, tourism is the biggest economic earner in County Clare today.
Artists and art galleries: They’re popping up all over Clare, making it the hub of the arts and music scene in Ireland.
Organic farming and craftworks: There is a plethora of organic, sustainable, and open farms scattered around Clare that are supplying the exploding demand for healthy and locally grown foods. That being said, conventional non-organic farming is still a big factor in Clare.
Remote working: The increase in remote working has been significant in County Clare, transforming from a “trickle” to a substantial and sustained trend that is positively impacting the local economy. This has been driven by both employees relocating from urban centers like Dublin and international workers.
Retirement: Clare continues to increase in demand as a retirement destination due to the superb outdoor activities.
The Emerald Isle is an island. The only practical way of getting here is by air. While there are a few ferry sailings from the U.K. and France, these are only used by those coming on driving holidays to Ireland.
The main airports are:
Shannon Airport (SNN): In County Clare and less than 30 miles from most places of interest. There are direct flights from the United States to Shannon, and have been for several years. Several major US airlines offer both year-round and seasonal non-stop routes, eliminating the need for a connection through a European airport.
Cork Airport (ORK): The main airport in the south of Ireland with international flights from the States, Europe, and Asia.
Dublin Airport (DUB): The largest airport in the Republic of Ireland.
By Car: The wonders of the west coast of Clare are spread out, so renting a car is the most practical option for getting around. There are rental companies at the airports; you can book upon arrival.
By Bus: There are inexpensive airport buses available that take you to Ennis in County Clare. From Ennis you can catch connecting buses to get to your final destination. Bear in mind the buses to small towns and villages can be irregular.
By Train: Trains are a lovely way to see the Irish countryside, but unfortunately there are only a few trains each day to the county town of Ennis and none to the towns on the coast.
The expat community is everywhere and nowhere in Ireland. Ireland, once the poorest and most homogenous nation in Europe, has become a prosperous nation of immigrants.
There are a lot of expats in Clare, but they seem to integrate into the communities so well that there aren’t many identifiable “expat groups” per se. When you move to County Clare you get the opposite of culture shock. You immediately get the feeling you are coming home even if it’s the first time you’ve set foot in Ireland.
Natural hot seaweed baths: a new and popular outside spa treatment in Clare.
Fishing: There is great fishing off the beaches, cliffs, and heads, and deep-sea fishing from boats across County Clare. Fishing Adventures Ireland and Carrigaholt Sea Angling are two charter companies to check out.
Dolphin Discovery Kilrush: See and maybe swim with dolphins.
JJ Corry Irish Whiskey Bonding: Want to see how whiskey is made in Ireland and take part in local whiskey tastings? Check out JJ Corry.
Craggaunowen: Come see a recreation of an iron age fort and how people lived in Ireland before recorded time. Included is a life-size replica of the small wood and leather boat Saint Brendan sailed to the Americas in the 8th century.
Surf schools: Lahinch has five surf schools, which is a testament to the great waves and adventurous lifestyle available in Clare, right off the promenade.
Matchmaking Festival: Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival is held every September and is a comical take on the old tradition of romantic matchmaking. Lots of music, Guinness, and fun.
Gaelic Athletic Association (GAA) sports: The traditional Irish sports of hurling and Gaelic football are the sports of choice in Clare. There are 53 GAA clubs across the county, and the pride these athletes take in their amateur sport dwarfs that of many professional sports.
There are plenty of wonderful small coastal towns and villages to choose from in West Clare. Here are a few of the best…
Lahinch – Surf, Golf, and Seaside Living
A surfer’s mecca and golfer’s paradise, Lahinch blends classic seaside fun with modern energy. You’ll find long beaches, lively pubs, great restaurants, and two 18-hole golf courses. It’s one of the most popular and expensive spots in Clare—but worth every wave and sunset.
Liscannor – Small-Village Charm by the Cliffs of Moher
Just north of Lahinch, Liscannor is a picture-perfect seaside village famous for its fossil-filled sandstone and stunning coastal walks. Stop in for a pint at Joseph McHugh’s and you’ll quickly feel like a local.
Doonbeg – Golf, Music, and Atlantic Views
Centered around a medieval watchtower, Doonbeg is alive with traditional music and hospitality. It’s home to the renowned Trump International Links Golf Course, and nearby Doughmore Beach is a favorite for surfers, anglers, and families alike.
Doolin – Music, Craic, and the Aran Islands Gateway
Doolin is the heart of Irish traditional music, where live sessions fill the pubs almost every night in season. From here, ferries cross to the Aran Islands and sea tours run to the base of the Cliffs of Moher. Vibrant in summer and peacefully quiet in winter.
Kilkee – Family-Friendly Seaside Living
A classic Irish seaside resort with a sheltered bay, cliff walks, natural swimming holes, and lively pubs. Kilkee has a great community feel, strong summer scene, and quick access to Shannon Airport and Limerick.
Spanish Point – Long Beaches and Laid-Back Days
Named for the 16th-century Spanish Armada wreck, Spanish Point is all about its sweeping sandy beach and relaxed vibe. A top pick for surfers and beach lovers, with excellent dining at the Armada Hotel and Red Cliff Lodge.
Ennistymon – Art, Food, and Local Life
Just inland from Lahinch, Ennistymon is a creative little town alive with galleries, health-food shops, cafés, and artisan delis. It’s as Irish as it gets—quirky, friendly, and open year-round, making it ideal for full-time living.
Lisdoonvarna – Spa Heritage and Festival Spirit
This charming village is known for its old spa tradition and the famous Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Festival each September. It’s full of character, humor, and good fun.
The Burren & Ballyvaughan – Nature and Peace in Equal Measure
The Burren is a UNESCO Global Geopark with rare flora and otherworldly stone landscapes. Ballyvaughan, on its edge, makes a perfect base for walks, cycling, and exploring caves, with cozy cafés and seafood spots to end the day.
Fanore – Quiet Retreat by the Sea
Fanore is the peaceful side of Clare: wide beaches, dunes, and a handful of cottages and pubs. Ideal if you crave quiet mornings, ocean air, and star-filled nights.
It depends…
Are you seeking solitude, surfing, or stimulation? The towns and villages of West Clare all have wonderful aspects, but they are all unique.
Lahinch is the place for tourists, surfing, and golf. Doolin for music and craic. Fanore has empty beaches perfect for quiet reflection. Ennistymon is a music, artist, and artisanal food haven.
Kilkee is where everyone from my hometown of Limerick goes on their vacation.
All have great character. There’s good food, good people, and good fun in all of them.
What makes Ireland one of the most welcoming—and rewarding—places in the world to retire?. Visit our Retiring in Ireland page.
Property in Ireland is expensive due to restrictive planning laws, high land values, and high taxes. The average house in Ireland now costs 345,000 euros.
The property market in better-known towns like Lahinch, Kilkee, and Doolin commands a premium over the smaller but equally attractive villages.
Despite all of this, you can get a one-bed townhouse in Kilkee for less than 200,000 euros or fixer-upper cottages for 150,000 euros if you want a major project.
If you do a little research, you can find gems for much less than the average national house price.
All houses sold in Ireland now need an energy efficiency rating (BER). This BER rating goes from A to F and impacts the price of the house you’re buying.
There are no restrictions on foreign buyers of property in Ireland.
Good long-term rentals can be hard to find due to surging demand and the huge premiums available to those who lease short-term through Airbnb during the short summer months.
Long term lets are impossible to find during the summer months, so aim your rental hunts for offseason and get a renewable 12-month lease.
Rental costs vary due to location, condition, and amenities. Spend some time traveling around all the villages and see which combination of fun, solitude, scenic beauty, and amenities you like best.
Rentals can be found outside towns in older buildings and places like Ennistymon for 1,000 euros, but modern apartments or townhouses on long-term leases will cost you at least 1,300 euros per month in popular places like Lahinch, Doolin, or Kilkee.
Ireland has both a public and private health care system, and many times both services are administered out of the same hospital.
If you have a health issue, it’s recommended you go to your general practitioner first unless it’s an emergency. If you require further care they will send you to a hospital for tests or onwards to a specialist.
The standard of medical care in Ireland is high, but emergency rooms are often overcrowded. Should you require non-emergency treatment over a weekend, bring a book because you will be waiting a long time.
The closest hospital is in Ennis, 40 kms away from most popular areas. The closest regional hospital is in Limerick City, about 70 kms from Lahinch.
There are doctors’ surgeries in every town and village.
Depending on the insurance coverage you have, you might have to pay for visits to the doctor or dentist. Consultations or dental cleanings generally cost 60 euros.
The Weather
County Clare is stunning in all weather, but you have to remember that the Clare coastline is where the wild Atlantic Ocean breaks onto the European Continent. The weather can be cold, hot, rainy, humid, windy, and still all in the same day.
We get many fine days in the summer, but the term “fine” is relative. If it breaks 20°C (68°F), everyone quits work and heads to the beach.
We don’t get the blistering winter cold or heatwaves that mainland Europe experiences, there are many rainy, cloudy, cold days in County Clare. The good news is you will have lots of time in winter to read books in front of a roaring fire.
Winding Roads
The signage and surface of the roads around West Clare have improved immensely in the past decade, as has GPS. While this has meant the chances of foreign visitors getting lost in the bogs of Ireland have dropped to practically zero, the narrow winding roads in remote areas can be a pain for those used to highway driving.
You’ll also have to get used to roundabouts. They’re everywhere.
Internet Access
High-speed internet is available in most of County Clare. New connections can take one to four weeks. With promotional packages starting at 30 euros per month for up to 150 Mbps speeds and 1 Gb speeds possible, you can save more by bundling with your cable or phone subscriptions.
Schools In County Clare
Ireland has some international schools in Dublin but none in County Clare. That said, the Irish educational system is excellent, so private education isn’t necessary.
There are primary schools in every town and village and school bus lines serving many rural areas. The 18 secondary schools in County Clare offer a high level of secondary level education.
LGBTQ+ Living In County Clare
Ireland is generally very accepting of all genders and identities. We had our first openly gay Taoiseach (prime minister) in from 2017 to 2020. We are the country of Oscar Wilde and Graham Norton. Our most beloved talk show presenter for 40 years was famously named Gay Byrne.
The explosion of art galleries, music venues, and boutique B&Bs is making Clare an attractive place for the LGBTQ+ crew.
Crowded Beaches
Don’t go to popular beaches like Lahinch on sunny weekends unless you plan on getting there early or moving well down the beach. The beaches will be mobbed by the Vitamin D-deficient Irish, and parking will be a nightmare. There are plenty of secluded and quiet beaches along the coastline you can use instead.
The villages go to sleep for the winter, and without the tourists and holiday home owners around, life gets very quiet.
Crime
Considering the decades of sectarian violence that blighted the island of Ireland until the Good Friday Agreement in the 1990s, crime rates are surprisingly low.
Our mostly unarmed, low impact, and friendly Garda Síochána (which literally means “Guardians of the Peace”) police force are a reflection of the general safety. Home invasions, mass shootings, and civil unrest don’t happen in southern Ireland.
Anti-social and drunk and disorderly behavior occurs on the streets after closing time and sometimes during the day, but the Gardai are well-used to handling it. I can’t imagine what crime might befall you in County Clare other than some sheep rustling or someone stealing your golf tee time.
The West Coast of Clare is not for city-loving, mall- worshipping, materialists…
With its abundance of lovely small villages, laid back and fun-loving locals, amazing scenery, golf, fishing, walks, pubs and restaurants, Clare is for those who want a quieter life but also a life with some craic.
Clare for those with an artistic spirit, who yearn for inspiration, life, and laughter.
World class spa treatments, arts galleries, artisan food producers, nifty store and boutiques abound. That said, the true treasures of County Clare cannot be bought with money. The value of living in County Clare is the oneness with nature and the weird and wonderful people.
Reviewed By Kathleen Peddicord
Kathleen is the Live and Invest Overseas Founding Publisher. She has more than 30 years of hands-on experience traveling, living, and buying property around the world.
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