As you walk the old cobblestone streets, marvel at the historic Spanish architecture, and admire the grandeur of Cuenca’s colonial churches, you’ll know that you’re not in Kansas anymore.
Lots of retirement destinations tout the fact that they’re just like the United States—that you can settle in to familiar surroundings—but you won’t hear that about Cuenca.
Each day you spend in this city, you’re very aware that you’re in a different and wonderful part of the planet. In fact—even after five years living there—I’d frequently stop, look at my surroundings, and marvel at the fact that I was living such a life. The thrill of being in this old Spanish capital never wore off.
If you’re looking for the world’s best place to retire overseas on a budget—to live better for less—then Cuenca, Ecuador, will be almost impossible to beat. In a nutshell, here’s why:
- It’s a beautiful colonial city in a fascinating and diverse country…
- The cost of living is low, and the cost of properties is near rock bottom in Latin America…
- The health care is high quality, honest, and inexpensive…
- You can enjoy its fresh, spring-like climate 12 months of the year…
- Cuenca’s large and growing expat community is one of Latin America’s most diverse and well-blended…
These are bold statements, and you’re right to be skeptical. So let’s take a look at the realities of life in Cuenca.
The historic center measures roughly 12 by 20 blocks—large but manageable. Most of the streets are cobblestone, and are hemmed in by Spanish Colonial buildings that seldom exceed three stories.
Downtown Cuenca is in a generally good state of preservation, considering the original adobe construction. And today’s Cuenca boasts a large number of cafés, restaurants, bars, and bookshops, alongside the traditional butchers, tailors, repair shops, clothing stores, and wonderful-smelling bakeries.
Traffic in Cuenca can be congested, and I find it much easier to walk downtown than drive. Buses are not permitted near the town square, but where they are permitted, they can be frequent, fast, and noisy. Keep that in mind when property shopping.
The city is built around its beautiful town square, anchored by the original cathedral at one end (built 1557), and the “new” cathedral (1800s) at the other end, with traditional Spanish arches around much of the square. Here’s a brief video of the square, Parque Calderón.
A UNESCO World Heritage Site, this former Inca capital still retains a prominent Andean-indigenous influence… with a number of colorful, open-air markets where women in their traditional hats—and brightly-colored, embroidered full skirts—bring their food and wares for sale.
But of course the stronger cultural influence is Spanish, which dominates the local customs, architecture, government structure, and society norms.
There are other colonial cities in Ecuador, but Cuenca is the cultural heart of the country. You can attend the orchestra or a play, enjoy a tango show or an art opening, in this center of art and literature; and these activities are usually free.
Cuenca is also a popular destination for international tourists and a large number of language students. They bring an extra vitality to the city, as well as more than its share of “international” amenities, from Indian restaurants to English bookshops and Middle Eastern hookah lounges.
Best of all, Cuenca is in Ecuador. It’s one of the most beautiful and diverse countries on the planet. Aside from Cuenca, Ecuador boasts the Amazon Rainforest, the Galápagos Islands, hundreds of miles of coastline, and the beautiful Andean central valleys…
Lee Harrison
Host of this week’s Access Ecuador Online Workshop