Tierras Altas is poised to become the next Boquete.
Situated in the highlands of western Panama, it features comparable scenery—misty hillsides dense with greenery, gardens terraced into slopes, and abundant wildflowers. Its cool-weather climate and the outdoor lifestyle it affords are also similar…
But Tierras Altas is also very different to Boquete in important ways.
First, it’s affordable. Everything from the cost of real estate to the cost of a burger costs less here, while costs in Boquete are closer to those of a mid-size U.S. city. Second, Tierras Altas is relatively unknown, while Boquete is one of the most famous expat communities in the world. Third, Tierras Altas is authentic and down-to-earth, while some complain of the imported American culture that dominates Boquete.
Where Is Tierras Altas?
Tierras Altas is a district in Chiriquí Province, on the east side of Volcán Barú, an inactive volcano. It’s made up of five townships: Volcán, Cerro Punta, Cuesta de Piedra, Nueva California, and Paso Ancho. Each of these contains a dozen or more small mountain towns.
The region is situated at a higher altitude than Boquete and its climate is cooler, but these factors vary village to village. Expats choose which village is right for them based on which type of microclimate they prefer.
The towns and villages that make up the Tierras Altas region are stretched out along an asphalt road system. Volcán is the largest of them, with a population of 13,000. It’s one hour (56 kms or 35 miles) from David, the provincial capital and closest big town, and nearly seven hours (490 kms or 304 miles) from Panama City.
Volcán has the lowest elevation in Tierras Altas, sitting at 1,400 meters (4,617 feet) above sea level. Guadalupe, my favorite destination, is one of the last towns on the road and is situated at 2,255 meters (7,398 feet) above sea level.
Tierras Altas Climate
Tierras Altas has a temperate mountain climate due to its altitude in the cloud forest. In fact, the town of Las Nubes’ name literally means “the clouds.”
In Volcán, the average temperature ranges between 13°C and 24°C (55°F to 75°F). There are micro-climates here, and at higher elevations… places like Cerro Punta, Guadalupe, and Las Nubes… it can get down to 5°C (41°F) at night, especially in the dry season, which means frost.
The Breadbasket Of Panama
Tierras Altas is the breadbasket of Panama thanks to its volcanic soil. In fact, 80% of the country’s produce comes from the highlands, making agriculture the driving force of the economy. It’s the only place I’ve seen dairy cows (as opposed to the long-eared Brahman cattle) in the country.
The cool climate, coffee, and produce—especially strawberries—all make Tierras Altas famous.
There are small businesses along the roads offering hot chocolate, coffee, and everything strawberry… shortcake, milkshakes, popsicles, strawberries with cream… you name it, they’ve
got it.
As a “crazy plant lady” myself, I love this area for the variety of plants, flowers, and succulents that adorn every other house—at least in Guadalupe. Nearly everything grows here… citrus, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, lettuce, carrots, and of course, strawberries… in addition to the lowland crops such as bananas.
From citrus to roses and orchids, Tierras Altas has it all… There are lots of gardens to tour here including Finca Dracula whose orchid collection is the third largest in the world.
Things To Do In Tierras Altas
Bird watching, hiking, and the national parks bring people from all around the world to this area.
Volcán Barú National Park is located here, and at 3,475 meters (11,400 feet) above sea level, it’s the highest point in the country. There are seven different craters visible from trails within the park, including the Quetzal Trail which joins Cerro Punta and Boquete.
Cerro Punta
The picturesque town of Las Nubes is the gateway to International Park La Amistad (friendship), which is shared with Costa Rica. La Amistad was established in 1988 and declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1990.
The 407,000 hectares of forest protect five species of cats: ocelot, puma, jaguar, jaguarundi, and margay. The endangered Baird’s tapir is found here and about 600 species of birds.
Four indigenous groups live within the park: Naso, Bribri, Ngäbe, and Buglé. They live traditional lifestyles in small communities.
Tierras Altas Cost Of Living
Tierras Altas is one of the most affordable places to live in Panama. It also has the cheapest produce in the country. A couple could live comfortably on a food budget of US$400 to US$500 per month shopping at both the nicer Romero and the other local supermarkets in Volcán.
That might include one or two nights out per month, even at the popular Wandering Sloth Bar and Grill where a “gringo burger” costs US$4.45. A national beer is priced at US$1.50 and a glass of wine US$2.50. A 16-inch family-sized pizza starts at US$8.95.
If you were to eat a more Panamanian-style fare, it would be cheaper. A typical dish with chicken or meat, rice, beans, and a small salad costs US$3 to US$4.
I saw a small apartment building in downtown Volcán offering private furnished apartments for US$300 a month, with washing machines, electricity, water, sewage, garbage, and Wi-Fi included.
Who Should Come To Tierras Altas?
Tierras Altas would be wonderful home for nature lovers, birders, gardeners, hikers, tinkerers (those who can stay busy with hobbies and projects), and relaxed, every-day, down-to-earth people.
If you’re used to large social circles and events, like to get dressed up, night life, and fine dining, you may be disappointed here.
If you seek simplicity, privacy, connection with nature, and an unpretentious expat community, come see what Tierras Altas has in store for you.
Michelle Miller Shogren
Panama Insider
