"There isn't all that much to do on Caye Caulker, and that's why we like it. It's quiet. There are no nightclubs or shopping malls. We have streets made of sand, and it's safe to walk barefoot, because everywhere is clean.
"How do we fill our days? We drop a line from any dock and catch fish using a string and spool. You don't need a fishing pole.
"We wander the beaches. I do yoga. Go kite surfing.
"We snorkel, sail, and swim in the clear sparkling water. It is the cleanest ocean water I have ever seen, and I have traveled all over the world, to 27 countries on 4 continents. We dive. We are close to the Blue Hole. People come from all over the globe to dive the Blue Hole.
"And I work, but it's more like play than work. I was a professional photographer with my own business in California for 20 years. The last six years I've been traveling internationally, living in communities for three to six months at a time, teaching photography and yoga and shooting photos. And I've just finished writing my third book.
"Here on Caye Caulker, I'm renting a small bungalow for US$450 a month, including electricity, gas, and cable TV. But I haven't turned the television on once. In the evenings, I visit with my friends.
"You could rent for slightly less if you wanted--a house starting at US$400 a month, for example. Or you could spend much more for a large modern place on the ocean with several bedrooms. These rent for exorbitant rates to the tourists, but, for the locals, anyone staying six months or longer, the rate comes way down.
"I looked at two basic-style houses on the ocean renting for US$600 and US$700 a month. These weren't modern, but that doesn't bother me. I like seaside living. Everything is steps from the ocean here, but these houses, especially, had killer views of the Caribbean Sea from the terrace and from every window. And, though, again, I wouldn't describe these places as "modern," they did come with wifi.
"This place is not for everyone. You have to love nature and not mind waiting for the barge to bring your green vegetables once a week. Prices for many things are the same as in the United States. Things like olive oil, peanut butter, and honey, for example, cost as much as they would back in the States. It's an island. Everything must be shipped in.
"But we do have fresh-squeezed orange, grapefruit, watermelon, and cantaloupe juice for US$2.50 a quart. You can eat out at the best restaurant in town for US$4 to US$20.
"I love to cook, so I wait for that weekly barge and am excited to get fresh leafy greens.
"Electricity is costly if you run an air conditioner full-time. It can be upwards of US$200 per month for a small house. Try to get your electricity included in your rent if you can. I don't have air conditioning, but, as I am on the water, there is a gentle breeze into my bungalow all day long. Sometimes I augment it with a fan.
"If you want nightlife, San Pedro, the town on much more developed Ambergris Caye, is just a half-hour away on a safe, clean, large boat. The ride is US$10 one way, US$17 round trip.
"I make the trip over sometimes, but I'm always glad to return to Caye Caulker. It's much quieter here. Over on Ambergris Caye, these days, you have paved roads, even sidewalks, and actual traffic. It's a question of the kind of lifestyle you're looking for.
"I enjoy going over to Ambergris now and then for a glimpse of the real world, but I'm always eager to get back to this blissful place. For me, this is heaven."
Kathleen PeddicordContinue Reading:
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Festivities and family time continue through Boxing Day (Dec. 26) at least, a throwback to Belize's days as a British colony.
"One important Christmas tradition, remembered throughout Belize, is to spiff up the interior of your home. This is a Belizean's way of inviting the Christmas spirit. One Belizean friend told me not to judge a local's home by the exterior this time of year. It's what's inside that counts come holiday time. She explained that everyone brings out their gold, red, and green curtains, tablecloths, etc.
"And, in preparation for all the holiday visiting, Belizeans don't just decorate the insides of their homes this time of year; they give them a facelift, too. They repaint the walls, hang new drapes, even replace the linoleum! This is the Belizean version of spring cleaning, and the entire family pitches in.
"Many Belizeans put up Christmas trees, but typically the synthetic version. Those who can afford it decorate the outsides of their homes, too, with elaborate lights. Blow-up Santas, reindeer, lobsters, and manger scenes are especially popular. In San Pedro Town, where we live, the local San Pedro Sun leads an annual tour to vote for the best-decorated house.
"More than 70% of Belizeans are Christian, so the majority of residents celebrate the birth of Christ. As throughout Central America, the celebrations, though, are a mix of rituals from different cultures.
"Local traditional foods like rice and beans, potato salad, white relleno (soup with pork-stuffed chicken and raisins), pebre (roast pork) or ham with pickled onions and jalapeños, and tamales are typically part of Christmas Eve and Christmas Day feasts. But these dishes are modified for the holidays to include unusual meats or fowl. Rumpopo is the Belizean version of eggnog.
"Here in San Pedro Town, the Christmas season kicks off with the San Pedro Christmas Boat Parade. Local businesses, schools, and volunteers all contribute ideas, time, and energy. Each team decks out its boat with twinkling Christmas creations. Some are fun Caribbean take-offs on traditional Christmas themes. Hundreds of us island residents line the shores to watch the lighted boats go by, and I'm always baffled, watching from shore. How did they do that, I can't help but wonder about the elaborate light displays floating by.
"Back at the town square, a panel of judges named the best-decorated boats and other winners, and awarded prizes. Then the party continued, in the square, with food, drink, music, dancing, and local artists selling their wares.
"Another Christmas tradition here on Isla Bonita is the pageants put on by local schools. These feature singing and storytelling and are great fun. We attended the pageant at the Island Academy. This private school accepts children through 8th grade, and, this year, they presented their own updated version of the Christmas story. We don't have kids attending this school, but the pageant definitely helped to put us in the holiday spirit.
"We always miss our family and friends this time of year, sure, but we have come to enjoy the Belizean celebrations and certainly appreciate that, here in this Caribbean outpost, the focus isn't on shopping or gift-giving but on spending plenty of quality time with those you love."
Kathleen Peddicord
Editor's Note: Ann took photos of the San Pedro Christmas Boat Parade, the Island Academy Christmas Pageant, her neighbors' houses lit up for the season, and the enormous Christmas tree erected in the San Pedro town square. By all appearances, Christmas on Ambergris is a delight.
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"Another group flew to Ambergris Caye, my home for the past five years. I'm traveling with this group, to give them a tour of San Pedro and Grand Baymen, our development community a half-mile from the town center.
"A third group headed to Corozal, to check out Orchid Bay, the development on the Corozal Bay. Last but not least, some are traveling to Placencia, to check out Belize's 'other' beach town.
"It's amazing to me how diverse each conference group is. We never know who we're going to meet, but we're always sure that the mix of people will be interesting. Each time we make at least one or two new friends.
"One attendee I've spent time with, David, is another Live and Invest Overseas veteran. This is his second Belize conference. He was also here for the February event. He and some other attendees from that February conference have formed their own Facebook group to be able to stay in contact. Most of them have since returned to Belize at least once. David returned with his son in the summer. This week he is here his girlfriend.
"David has made a lot of progress in the last year, working through the planning steps he learned about in February. He left his job, taking early retirement earlier this year. He has sorted through his business affairs, getting things in order. Now he's close to the point of being ready to make his move overseas, at least part-time.
"David had looked at a few different countries. But he's gravitating toward Belize, especially Ambergris Caye. The fact that, at the close of the conference yesterday, he won a free week on Ambergris Caye, at Grand Baymen's beach resort, means he'll be able to stick around even longer than he had planned getting familiar with life on the island.
"I asked Dave whether he thought it was worth returning to repeat the conference.
"'Indeed,' he told me. 'This time I'm much more ready to absorb all the information and to take my plans to the next step.'
"Paul, another attendee in Belize City this week, is a travel writer, among other things, who spent time in Belize years ago. He has lived a very full life, traveling the world. Gail, his partner, owned a travel agency. Circumstances led them to move back to South Dakota, where Gail grew up.
"Paul hadn't been back to Belize in many years. This return trip, before the conference, he and Gail spent time in the Cayo, at the Chaa Creek jungle lodge, participating in eco-tourism activities. Paul's been snapping pictures left and right and gathering information to write a series of articles about this country. He's particularly fascinated with the Mayan culture and how it relates to other ancient cultures.
"I'd say that Paul is sold. He can visualize what he would do if he and Gail lived here part-time. Gail's not quite so sure yet. She enjoyed the Cayo, but she isn't sure she could spend a serious amount of time in Belize. Like many couples, they each have different preferences and perceptions. They need more time and experiences in Belize to work it through. Now that the conference has finished, they're planning to spend a few days on Ambergris Caye, before deciding where to venture next..."
Kathleen Peddicord
P.S. The conference has concluded, and our team is setting to work editing the recordings of each presentation. Once this work is finished, the recordings, PowerPoint presentations, and other materials from this week's Live & Invest in Belize Conference will be available as part of our new-and-improved Belize Home Conference Kit.
Meantime, while the editing is under way, this comprehensive Belize bundle of resources is available for purchase pre-release for a 50% discount. Full details are here.Continue Reading:
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"When I spoke with Harvey yesterday, he was on his way to dinner with Arturro Lizarraga, the official here at the conference representing Belize's Free Zone. This morning I ran into Harvey and asked for an update. He reported that Arturro offered to rent him a three-story building in the Free Zone. He already has figured out how he'll use the building for his non-profit operations in Belize (the first floor will be for vocational training, the second for technical training, and he and the instructors will live on the third floor while they are in the country), and he is discussing with Arturro what types of training would be most valuable for Belizean workers.
"I asked Harvey if all this weren't a bit pre-mature, considering he hasn't gone looking for funding yet? He told me he isn't at all worried about the funding. Apparently, that's his talent and his experience. His concern was whether he would be able to connect with Belizean government officials whose support and assistance he knew he'd need to get the project off the ground. He managed that Day 1 of this week's event.
"Harvey is also looking to connect with people who share an interest in his project and who may have training ideas. His company is Champion Technical Training Center. If you are interested in learning more or in becoming involved, you can contact Harvey at Harvey.kidman@cttc-af.org.
"What else is going on here in Belize City this week? We've heard from more than 20 speakers at this point. Here are some highlights:
"International asset protection attorney Joel Nagel explained:
"'Just like Belize, the United States has bank secrecy laws, too. Here's how it goes in the U.S.: Your bank is required to give your personal information to the IRS...but to keep the process a secret from you. It's like the world of the Mad Hatter.'
"Joel continued:
"'Interest in foreign residency and expatriation has escalated dramatically during the last five years. A little old lady came to talk to me recently to tell me that she was seriously considering expatriating. This really took me by surprise because she reminded me of my grandmother. It made me realize how much things are changing and how quickly. It used to be that 200 to 300 Americans expatriated each year. More than 8,000 Americans expatriated last quarter...'
"American expat Phil Hahn, who lives part-time in Belize, explained:
"'In Belize, when people say 'ATM,' they aren't referring to a cash machine. They are referring to Actun Tunichal Muknal, a spectacular place in the Cayo. To get there you need to hike through the forest. Next you swim into a cave and then spelunk to get to it. It is amazing and unique in the world. Other countries would not let you visit such a place without restriction or a guide. There are Mayan artifacts everywhere. But here in Belize, this special place is open for everyone to explore.'
"Bob Stevens, a British expat living full-time in Belize for most of his life, told us about southern Belize:
"'This part of the country is so remote that it is a great place to practice survival rescues. The Brits planned a practice evacuation exercise, and my wife and I volunteered to participate. The Brits dropped us in the tiny Mayan village of Aquacate, on the border with Guatemala. We felt like we were in a 16th-century film. Local Mayans looked after us, fed us. We were supposed to be found and picked up by the rescue team by 6 p.m. that night, but they couldn't find us. The only piece of equipment we had was a solar-powered phone. Fortunate for us, it worked! I eventually had to use it to direct our rescue party.'
"We remind you often of the 4 R's of Belize--reef, ruins, rivers, and rain forest. Expat Amma Carey told us yesterday of the fifth R of this country:
"'The fifth R is for rum! Try the 5 Barrel,' Amma recommended. 'You can get it in duty free at the airport for US$11.'
"The Mayans are an important and respected part of Belizean culture and history. They believe, of course, that 2012 is going to be the end of the world. Attendees asked Bob Stevens what he thinks will happen:
"'I expect it will be stretched out into an extended holiday season,' Bob explained. 'There will be a party to prepare for the end of the world, a party when the world is supposed to end, and an I Survived The End Of The World party.'
"Bob, who operates a shipping and logistics business in Belize, had more serious advice, as well:
"'Customs here typically unpacks only 10 boxes,' Bob explained. 'So the first 10 boxes have to be right.' His group can help with your packing.
"Our focus this week is Belize, of course, but the program also features general information from experts in banking, investing, taxation, and other issues related to taking your life and your money offshore. International tax attorney Chris Rusch, for example, told the group:
"'Incorporate where you won't pay taxes. The best idea is to incorporate in a country other than where you're doing business. This can bring you privacy and security. Nevis is my preferred jurisdiction for privacy. The Cayman Islands are the most transparent. You might as well incorporate in the United States.'"
Kathleen Peddicord
P.S. The fun isn't finished yet. Ann promises more from Belize manana...Continue Reading:
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Because I couldn't be in Belize City with the group myself, I asked Belize Correspondent Ann Kuffner, resident in this country, on Ambergris Caye, for five years, to keep you (and me) in touch with the goings-on...
"Carl," Ann wrote overnight, "is in Belize City this week with us for his second Live and Invest in Belize event. Last year, he explained, he hesitated to approach me or the other speakers. He just wasn't comfortable yet with the whole idea of moving to a new country.
"This year he contacted me via e-mail before the conference and asked if we could arrange time to speak one-on-one. I encouraged him, assuring him that this is what we are here for! In the meeting rooms of the Ft. George Hotel this week, we've convened about three-dozen Belize experts, all of us on hand to assist the attendees, answer their questions, and work through their fears about moving overseas.
"Carl joined my husband Mike and me for breakfast Monday morning. It's great fun to watch as he embraces the opportunities before him. I can see that he is beginning to grasp how exciting it can be to make a move like this...to reinvent your life in a new place.
"Carl was a paralegal in his professional life and continues to work part-time on the side. He also trades online. But now what he'd like is to find a way to give back. He's looking for opportunities to volunteer in Belize. Meantime, he's not sure which location in this country is right for him. He'll be going to visit Carmelita after the conference and then traveling over to Ambergris Caye to join the Grand Baymen tour group. He is staying on in Belize for a month and really intends, this trip, to figure out a plan. He is glad that he came back for a second LIO conference, because, now, he's ready.
"Carl isn't alone. Several other attendees in Belize City with us this week have been to other LIO events. As they've realized, there is so much to learn, and now, for them, this second (even third) time around, so much more is sinking in. Some have returned with a spouse or significant other, recognizing that that's key...to make this kind of decision jointly.
"Carolyn and Ed, for example, are a 70-something couple from Michigan. They've sold their home recently and are working through the adjustment to being free now to pursue adventure. They're here at the conference this week to prepare to explore options for living part-time in this country. Like many others I'm speaking with, they want to take time to look at both Ambergris Caye (Caribbean island) and the Cayo (in Belize's interior). Carolyn and Ed, again like so many readers I'm speaking with, are taking things one step at a time, getting comfortable before making a commitment.
"In fact, I met Carolyn before this week's conference, on Ambergris Caye last February, when she and Ed spent a few days at Grand Baymen's resort in San Pedro. We chatted at the pool one day. When I found out she lived in Michigan, I told her I grew up in Detroit. She was a teacher there, she said, at an all-girl Catholic high school.
"'Ah, I graduated from an all-girl Catholic high school," I replied. "Dominican."
"It turns out, that's where Carolyn taught! She was a young nun at my school when I was a student. When she explained that she had been Sister Serena, I remembered her right away. She was an attractive, lively young nun, one of our favorites. Not long after that she left the convent and eventually married. What a small world!
"Harvey Kidman, another attendee here in Belize this week, is a man on a mission. Harvey sets up and runs non-profit vocational schools around the world to teach locals skills that will help them to earn a living. Harvey has been living in Afghanistan for the last few years, where he set up several schools with help from USAID and other organizations.
"Now Harvey has targeted Belize. He likes what Belize has to offer, both politically and from a doing-business point of view, and he is here this week to find out if this country is interested in the kinds of program he wants to create.
"After hearing Arturro Lizarraga, who spoke today about opportunities in Belize's Free Zone, Harvey was encouraged. He and Arturro are meeting for dinner to discuss Harvey's plan further..."
Kathleen Peddicord
P.S. Ann has promised to continue to report from the scene each day this week as our Live and Invest in Belize Conference continues. More tomorrow...Continue Reading:
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