Northern Belize

Life in Northern Belize is as diverse as its amazing landscape. Over the years, locals and expats have built their homes and lives beside secluded tropical rivers, amid noble hardwood forests, upon bucolic traditional farms, within sleepy rural villages, and along breezy Caribbean seashores. They are attracted to a simple, friendly life in a place which is refreshingly off-the-radar.

Northern Belize is a region encompassing a landmass of only about 2,500 square miles, but it stretches from the Caribbean Sea to the forests of Central America.

The population of under 50,000 people means you can enjoy plenty of solitude—a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the world. It is truly where the Caribbean and Central America meet. Plus, these combined backdrops are enhanced by ancient and contemporary influences.

From the rich Maya history, evident throughout the region, to the relatively recent contribution of the Mennonite community, Northern Belize has benefited from its diverse population.

The new wave of North American expats is now making this discovery. The towns of Corozal and Orange Walk provide most of the municipal services, but for First World shopping trips and experiences, Chetumal, Mexico, is right across the border.

Northern Belize is the best value destination in Belize and one of the most affordable options for retirement in the Caribbean. A couple can live well in the region for less than 2,936 Belize dollars (US$1,457) per month.

Northern Belize Budget

By Con Murphy

Eating out:

A beer: US$2.50

Glass of wine: US$5

Rum and coke (or other local cocktails): US$2.50

A coffee: US$2

A sandwich (or equivalent): US$5

Average cost of a meal out per person in your city:

• Lunch: US$5 to US$10
• Dinner: US$5 to US$15

Car/motorbike ownership:

• Car insurance: US$200
• Fuel: US$6 per gallon (3.8L) gas
• Upkeep: US$1,191 per year min; much more if you drive on unpaved roads
• Monthly payments: local finance is not cheap.
• Parking: 0

House Ownership Budget (for a couple) In Northern Belize

Apartment or House Rental Budget

Penny-Pincher’s Budget (for a couple, bare minimum costs for all)

Click here for currency conversions at today’s exchange rates.

One of the best indications of progress is paved roads. While the British left a strong legal, educational, and governmental foundation, they did not leave a great deal of physical infrastructure. Over the last few years, much more emphasis has been placed on some of these vital features.

The Northern Highway that connects Belize City and the rest of the country with Corozal and Mexico to the north is a fine example of that. Once a tortuous pothole ride through cane fields and small towns, it has been upgraded to a modern road. Before, you had to drive through the middle of Orange Walk Town and its tiny streets behind tractors and cane trucks, but now they have built a nice, efficient bypass that shaved a lot of time off the drive.

Not everything is about pavement. Dirt roads are still the norm in Northern Belize, but even those have been getting continual, albeit slow, upgrades. You can tell when it is election time in Belize because the roads in towns that are vital to the incumbent’s chances of reelection will be graded and smoothed to show how much that official is doing for his people.

Traveling into the hinterlands can still be an adventure and the cause of flat tires, poor suspension, and possibly even a crooked back, but with good planning, you will have a supply of water, a good spare tire, a full tank of gas, and a cellphone. Having the correct attitude going in helps.

Northern Belize is a very attractive destination to people who are looking for a consistently warm climate. The climate is subtropical. Temperatures range from 60 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit.

The area boasts the most hospitable climate in the country.

Most importantly, the region enjoys trade winds coming off the ocean and has two seasons. The rainy season is between June and December and the dry season covers December to May.

U.S. citizen can enter Belize without a visa and remain there as a tourist for up to 30 days. If you’re looking to retire or relocate here, however, you’ll need to apply for the necessary permits to stay.

For retirees, or anyone above the age of 45, will find that the Belize’s Qualified Retired Persons (QRP) residency program is a good choice.

The only requirements to qualify for Belize’s QRP program are that you or your spouse be 45 years of age or older, that you consider yourself to be retired, and that you show that you have a minimum monthly income of at least US$2,000 per month to support yourself in Belize.

As we get older, we start to ask ourselves where we dream of spending the rest of our lives, where the best place to retire is, and where can we have a real adventure overseas…

Close to home, nestled below Mexico on the turquoise Caribbean seaboard, is a near-perfect paradise.

It’s English-speaking, has subtropical weather year-round, and is situated at the confluence of the Yucatán, Caribbean, and Central American cultures…

Belize has it all. It’s blessed with natural wonders, like warm waters, the Mesoamerican barrier reef, jungles teeming with fauna, and the spectacular Blue Hole—a 407-foot-deep cenote off the Belize coast that is a scuba divers’ mecca.

The cost of living here is lower than the States: it’s possible to live a fulfilling life for as little as US$1,200 per month, or you can live a life of luxury for less than most other Caribbean nations will cost.

Average year-round temperatures are in the mid-80s, and when it does rain here, it’s mostly warm showers. On top of all this, Belize is a tax haven, and just a stone’s throw from the States…

Yet many can’t find this little jewel of a country on a map…

It doesn’t make international news headlines but if often ranks as one of the best places in the world to retire.

With a tiny population, everywhere in Belize has a small town feel. Strangers smile and say good morning, happy to stop and chat when they pass each other on the street.

Belize has little history of political unrest. In fact, it’s one of the most stable countries in the region, politically and economically…

In northern Belize, some of the best areas to live are Corozal and Consejo Village.

Corozal

Corozal is both the name of a district and a town in northern Belize. Nestled on the Bay of Chetumal, Corozal Town is only a nine-mile hop from the Mexican city of Chetumal, the state capital of Quintana Roo.

It’s a lovely, laid-back, inexpensive place and home to the biggest population of expats in this part of the country. Yet even with 13,000 people, it has a small-village feel. It offers all the services, amenities, and community activities of a much larger town.

The weather here is better than the south, too: it gets 57 inches of rain per year—half that of Toledo, the most southern district of Belize.

Corozal is the recommended basecamp for anyone exploring northern Belize. It lies 84 miles north of Belize City and 68 miles from the international airport.

Many start their Belize adventure at Tony’s Inn & Beach Resort, which you pass as you drive into Corozal from the direction of Belize City. It’s one of the original expat hangouts and a great place to meet people and get local advice.

There are plenty of other places to stay while exploring the area, too, like Scotty’s, Jamrock, Tortuga’s, Mars Caribbean Gardens (for great Belizean food), and Corozal Blues.

Nearly three times as many people live in the villages of Corozal District compared to Corozal Town.

Rentals in Corozal are much more reasonably priced than in the other waterfront destinations in Belize… But finding them is difficult; the best value ones aren’t listed with a realtor or on rental websites. In fact, the only rentals that realtors bother to handle are the high-end ones.

The best option for finding great value accommodation is to ask locals and expats or drive around looking for rental signs.

Renting a big American-style house in a private development on the water will cost much more than good-quality local housing… Some love living in an expat community; others prefer the savings and adventure of living in a local village. It depends on your preferences and your budget.

Rent a basic, local-style house for US$200 per month; with US$300 to US$500 you can rent a nice, medium-sized local-style home in Corozal with sea views. For US$800 to $1,000 per month, you can get a local rental overlooking the water.

Basic health care services are reliable and inexpensive at local hospitals and clinics in Corozal, but serious issues are sent to the public Karl Heusner Memorial Hospital (KHMH) in Belize City.

Consejo Village

Seven miles northeast of Corozal and two miles from Chetumal is Consejo Village. It’s popular among expats for restaurants like Smugglers Den, an upmarket restaurant that does American and Caribbean cuisine, and Buccaneers Palapa Restaurant, which serves local food at reasonable prices.

Consejo Shores is a successful and thriving residential development close to Consejo Village. It boasts 1.25 miles of oceanfront, a nine-hole golf course, and over 120 established homes.

Many expat friends living here believe it’s the best location in Belize. Another expat development in this area is Mayan Seaside—a popular but quiet development. The main activities here are water volleyball on Thursdays and drinking beers on the dock.

Expats in northern Belize are welcomed by the local communities, and in turn, treat locals with respect and consideration.

Remember that as an expat living in Belize, you’re a guest: treat people with respect, and don’t try to change the habits of people of Belize.

Things will take longer than you expect here, and stressing about it won’t make any difference…

The cost of living in northern Belize is lower than in the States. Certain items like gasoline, imported processed foods, imported liquor and wine, and electronics cost significantly more in Belize.

With this in mind, it’s easy to tailor your habits to keep costs down. Swap your scotch for one of the dozens of great local rums available. As single man, I spend less than US$50 on groceries and household items per week, not including alcohol.

Electricity costs more than in the States but you find that the major appliances often are designed to use a lot less power than U.S. models.

Water is metered in the towns but is most often a flat rate of US$5 or US$7.50 per month in the villages. Water outages happen semi regularly in the villages, so investing in a water vat and pressure system is a good idea.

A main course in a basic local eatery starts around US$3.50, and a beer or rum and coke costs US$2.50. Higher-end restaurants serving international cuisine can run from US$7.50 to US$15 for all but the most expensive imported foods. A fancy cocktail in a nice bar or hotel with imported liquor will cost you US$6 to US$10.

One of the great advantages of Belize is the low cost of general labor. You can hire a house-cleaners for as little as US$2 per hour, but I always pay the person who has access to my home a bit more. Ask around for references when hiring someone, and pay more if you find someone who can also cook.

Yard maintenance or outdoor help is available for as little as US$17.50 per day, but I pay US$20 to US$25 for someone who is good. If your worker has to bring their own equipment, they charge more. Investing in your own equipment pays off quickly.

If you’re a laid-back, nature-loving person with a sense of adventure, you’ll love northern Belize.

When Karen Wilkinson’s husband passed away in 2003, she knew it was time for a life change. With 25 years in Michigan’s property game, she decided to take the leap when she saw the real estate boom coming to an end in 2006.

She’d dreamed of retirement in Europe, but factors like foreign exchange fluctuations, language barriers, and flight times from the States (where her five grown children live) made her reconsider…

Instead, Karen started looking at places like Belize, Ecuador, Panama, and Costa Rica…

With tropical weather, English as its first language, a fixed exchange rate, and an easy, two-and-a-half-hour flight to the States, Karen landed on Belize.

She’s been around the world, so the rough roads and questionable engineering practices of Belize didn’t faze her.

She packed her bags and flew to Belize, rented a car, and drove the breadth of the country to figure out where to settle…

When she arrived in Corozal, she knew she was home.

The value on offer was superior to that of San Pedro or Placencia. Plus, Corozal is just 30 minutes from Chetumal, a major Mexican city across the border… It’s hard to argue with that level of convenience.

The cherry on top for Karen was the placid waters of Corozal Bay.

Coming from Michigan, she spent many happy hours on the Great Lakes on her 36-foot cruiser. The shallow, protected draught of Corozal Bay made for ideal boating conditions.

She settled in Consejo Shores, a lovely development with a commanding view of the Bay of Corozal and the lights of Chetumal come nightfall…

Do you have any regrets about making the move overseas?

“If you choose to jump in to expat living, you have to be committed to it,” says Karen. “Going to a Caribbean country means saying goodbye to many of the conveniences of home and living abroad is not without its challenges, but it also offers amazing rewards. For me, it’s all about the people I’ve met.”

How do you find the local expat community and how do you spend your free time?

“The expats in Corozal are really interesting and genuine. This district has the most U.S. expats of any in Belize, and I’m happy to have found a tight-knit, eclectic community of friends with the same moral compass as me.

“I’m part of the Women’s Forum and the Corozal Sailing Club, teaching local kids water craft.

“I’m also a big advocate of the Corozal Animal Program. Our last drive, we neutered 225 strays, and it’s making a real difference to the local situation…

“Some of my friends are active in the Lions Club or Rotary; there are plenty of worthy causes anyone can get involved in.”

How do you find local health care?

When it comes to safety and health care, Karen finds her needs are met easily.

“The local eye clinic is great,” she says. “A friend from Canada recently got two cataract surgeries done, and it only cost them BZ$250.

“Local dental care is good and costs the same as it did in the 50s. And I’m reassured by the fact that Chetumal Hospital is only 30 minutes away for any serious medical issues.”

Do you have any security concerns?

“Security starts with basic common sense and awareness: Don’t flash large amounts of cash, your Rolex, or diamonds in public… the only people you’ll impress are the wrong ones.

“Lots of expats live in developments like Consejo Shores because of the extra sense of security that living next to friends brings.”

What are your favorite places to eat?

“For upscale dining and celebrations in Corozal, it has to be Cielo, with its indoor and outdoor offering,” she says.

“Date night could be Corozo Blues, Tortuga, RD’s, or Patties… And breakfast or lunch could be June’s Kitchen or JoMels.

“For groceries, Roshini has a broad selection of American and British groceries, and One Mall, a large Chinese general store, has got all sorts of everything.”

Do you spend much time in Chetumal?

“I go to Chetumal three or four times per year and make a full day of it, getting any items, medical attention, or conveniences that aren’t available locally.

“Once a month I put in an order for any American food or other goods I may need from across the border.

“If I need anything else from home, I order it on Amazon Prime and get it sent to a freight forwarders depot in the States, who pack and ship it, handling customs and delivering it to Corozal for me.”

Downsides of living in Belize?

“Many roads outside of towns and highways are unpaved and rough on vehicles,” says Karen. “Also, government bureaucracy, depending on the situation and the office, can be frustrating.

“But I’m still loving my life in Belize, despite the occasional pet peeve. The tax benefits and all the other upsides are still worth it.

“To wake up in the morning, see the water, and hear the birds is peaceful. This is what’s missing on a big scale back home. It’s not peaceful in a lot of the places we expats hail from, whether it’s Detroit, Toronto, or Miami.”

Karen’s final words of advice for anyone considering a move here are to take trip to Belize first before making a decision or buying property.

“Come down to Belize with an open mind,” she suggests, “see if it’s right for you.”