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Ambergris Caye, Belize

Ambergris Caye, Belize’s largest island, blends Caribbean charm with Belizean identity. A popular expat and retiree destination, it offers natural beauty, easy residency, and proximity to the world’s second-largest barrier reef. Though costlier than mainland Belize, it's affordable by North American standards, with active community life, diverse dining, and outdoor activities.


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Ambergris Caye, Belize: Temptation Island

Ambergris Caye Belize restful relaxing afternoon
iStock/Dennis Swanson - Studio 101 West Photography

Ambergris Caye is the largest of over 200 islands scattered along the eastern Caribbean shores of Belize. It is 36 miles in length and varies in width. In the middle of San Pedro Town, you can see the sea to the east and the lagoon—between mainland Belize and Ambergris Caye—to the west.

This is an English-speaking Caribbean Island with an intriguing past and a promising future. From Mayan trade post to pirate hideout, Mestizo fishing village to “Temptation Island,” this once sleepy tropical paradise is coming of age.

Despite quintessentially Caribbean in look and feel, Ambergris Caye’s political and cultural identity is Belizean to the bone. In other words, the residents of this island are warm and welcoming but also independent and politically active.

Belize only gained its independence, from the British, to form a democracy in 1981. The citizens of Ambergris Caye, like other Belizeans, take this privilege seriously.

Lief Simon, Director of Overseas Property Alert, Founde of Simon Letter, and Founder, of Global Property Advisor

Reviewed By Lief Simon

Lief Simon is the managing editor of Global Property Advisor, Simon Letter, and Offshore Living Letter. He has purchased more than 45 properties, investing in 23 different countries around the world.

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Table of Contents

Although an island, Ambergris Caye was at one time a peninsula that extended off Mexico’s Xcalac Peninsula. The manufactured channel on the north side of the island separates it from mainland Mexico.

It is said that the Mayans inhabiting the island hand dug this channel so that their canoes could easily move between the lagoon and the Caribbean Sea.

Ambergris Caye is located near to the Belize Barrier Reef, the second-longest reef in the world and the most spectacular in the Western Hemisphere.

This stunning natural wonder has attracted snorkelers, scuba divers and fishers since the advent of tourism on Ambergris Caye. Most importantly, it’s the only populated island in Belize where the reef is so close it feels like you can reach out and touch it.

So, it isn’t that difficult to jump into a kayak and paddle out to the reef to relish this living aquarium. From almost any point on the easterly beach you can watch the waves break on the stunning barrier reef, less than a mile from shore.

Ambergris Caye offers expats and retirees life in a tropical English-speaking Caribbean paradise, an affordable cost of living, retirement programs and incentives, and much more.

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Getting To Ambergris Caye, Belize

A large bird rests on a rock in the sea near Ambergris Caye.
Adobestock/StudioStoltz

You’ll find it fairly easy to travel to, from, and within Ambergris Caye. Most visitors fly from Belize International Airport directly to San Pedro, on Tropic or Maya Air. The airstrip is right on the southern edge of downtown San Pedro. Some of the resorts and hotels on the island will set up your flight reservation and charge it to your room. The roundtrip price from Belize International Airport to San Pedro is US$121. If you fly from Belize City Municipal airstrip, it will cost US$67. It’s about a US$25 taxi cab ride from the international airport to the municipal airport.

Water taxis are the least expensive (and the most scenic) way to travel between Belize City and San Pedro. Water taxis run regularly from downtown Belize City to San Pedro Town. (Note that water taxis don’t run from the International Airport.) The cost of a water taxi from Belize City to San Pedro is US$27.50.

When you arrive in San Pedro, you’ll see the local taxis waiting outside the airstrip or water taxi area, ready to take you to your hotel. If you are booked at one of the more expensive resorts, they will pick you up in their stretch golf cart. Check to find out if this is the case. If not, just take a taxi to your hotel. You shouldn’t be charged more than US$5 (BZ$10) for a ride to a hotel near town. If you are heading south past Victoria House, you may pay double that price. Recently taxis have been allowed to transport visitors across the cut, to the northern resorts. But I’ve heard that they have been charging as much as US$35 (BZ$70). It’s best to ask for the price up front. If you are out late at night, you may not have a choice but to take a taxi back. But if you do have a choice, the water taxi going north will be less than a land taxi.

If you stay close to town, you’ll be able to walk everywhere, rent a bike, or grab a taxi. But if you plan to thoroughly explore the island, you’ll want to rent a golf cart to get around. Rates are not cheap, but you can rent for a few hours, half a day, a day, or more. You should be able to find a rental for about US$60–US$75 per day, plus the 12.5% GST tax. If you want to tour the north island, you can cover a broad area in half a day during the dry season. Gasoline prices jumped to US$5.50 a gallon as of March 2011. But you don’t need much gas to drive a golf cart around the island. Our golf cart gas costs about US$20 per month.

The main drag, Coconut Drive–Barrier Reef Drive, runs most of the length of the island. In San Pedro town center there are three streets that run the length of the town: Angel Coral Street, Pescador Drive, and Barrier Reef Drive (nearest the beach). Ask a local and most will likely point out Front Street (closest to the beach), Middle Street, and Back Street (on the back side, close to the lagoon). Once past the downtown area, there’s only one street that reaches the bridge and that runs north for five to seven miles.

Most side streets are not well marked. But you’ll find detailed visual maps posted in the downtown area. When in doubt, just ask a San Pedrano or expat on the street when you are looking for something specific. People are very helpful, as long as they understand what you are looking for.

If you are walking to town from a local resort, take the beach. The view is pleasant, and a complete change from the main street. The beach is public, so you can walk its length around most of the island.

The streets around the town center are paved. Coconut Drive is paved going south until Victoria House, about two miles south of town. The road north of the town center has not yet been paved and can become rutted and muddy during the rainy season. The town is not responsible for the road north of the bridge. Local developers do pitch in to maintain the road for the first two miles north. But after that the road deteriorates quickly, especially during the rainy season.

Cost Of Living In Ambergris Caye, Belize

Colorful bungalows at the beach
Adobestock/InversedSlayer

This island is the most popular tourist retreat in Belize. In the recent past, it has been frequented by scuba divers, fishers, and water sports enthusiasts. But the tides are shifting.

Most importantly, you’ll find a steady stream of Baby Boomers visiting. They’re searching for the perfect place to retire to or escape to for part-time living. They are privacy-seeking individuals attracted by the island’s natural beauty, easy residency, and lively community.

And, they also have noted the advantages of the outstanding offshore banking, international corporation business structures, and trusts offered in Belize.

A couple can live well in this city for less than US$2,000 per month.

The currency in Belize is the Belize dollar.

Ambergris Caye is the most popular and well-known part of Belize. Although part of Belize, this is a colorful Caribbean island in look and feel. So, it is not surprising that the cost of living on Ambergris Caye is not cheap––by Belizean standards, but those who live here are happy to pay a bit more than what we would pay to live on the mainland… It is, after all, an island paradise surrounded by the stunning Caribbean Sea.

Every day residents relish the sight of the waves breaking offshore on the world’s second largest barrier reef. Plus, there is a wonderful, active community on the island.

A major cost here is that associated with either buying or renting a home or condominium. So that is the first thing to evaluate.

Property values on the island are pricey due to the value of land near the Caribbean Sea and barrier reef. But when compared to other Caribbean islands, the costs of properties on this island are quite reasonable.

The great deals get snapped up quickly. Word of mouth is the best way to find an exceptional deal.

Your cost of living on this island and the cost of living in Belize in general, will depend on the lifestyle you choose, and how well you adapt.

There is a real cost associated with shipping goods from the mainland to the island. The cost of living on Ambergris Caye, in general, is higher due to tourism and the fact that there are more tourists and expats here than in other parts of the country. But there are ways to cut the cost of daily living if you pay attention and are a careful shopper.

You’ll find that some items are much less expensive than in North America. For instance, you can design your own furniture and have it made from lovely Belizean hardwoods, such as mahogany, cabbage wood or poisonwood.

It will cost about the same as a factory bought furniture in the USA or Canada, but you will have a handmade product built to your specifications.

You can also get by with a bike if you live near San Pedro Town. If you live further out, a golf cart will suffice. Even though golf carts aren’t cheap, the cost of fuel and insurance are negligible compared to what you’ll spend on the mainland or in North America. (Expats cannot bring a car onto the island unless they have a business that needs it.)

Choosing carefully where you spend money will allow you to spend quite a bit at nice restaurants, bar hopping, travel, and imported foods. There are certain foods here that are very reasonably priced.

Many islanders have made beans a staple. They are cheap and wholesome. Fresh fish can be bought at the dock for about US$3.50 per pound.

Expats regularly eat street food, which is good. You can even find tasty chicken taco from a street vendor for as little as US$2.

Liquors and wine prices vary significantly. A bottle of local beer or rum is very reasonable.

But, if you are craving a good gin and tonic, you could spend about US$45 for a decent bottle of Tanqueray gin… Same deal for Jose Cuervo tequila.

Many expats wait for boat trips to Chetumal, where you can buy the same bottle of Tequila for less than US$20. You can also wait and buy gin when returning through Belize’s duty-free store at the International Airport. A bottle of Beefeaters or Tanqueray gin sells for about US$20 there.

On the island, it isn’t uncommon to eat out several times a week and visit Wine de Vine to socialize on Friday nights. Splurge on nice wines, typically running between US$20 to US$25 per bottle.

Here’s an idea of what your monthly budget on Ambergris Caye could look like…

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Monthly Budgets

Apartment Or House Ownership Budget (For A Couple)

 
Item Cost Notes
Mortgage
HOA Fees BZ$500
Property Taxes BZ$50 This is on a US$350,000 villa, BZ$600 per year.
Transportation BZ$1,000 Golf cart rental. This cost disappears once you have permanent residency or QRP status and can buy your own cart.
Gas BZ$40 Butane for cooking.
Electricity BZ$350 With mini splits for air conditioning.
Water BZ$150
Cell Phone BZ$55 Includes 8GB of data, unlimited talk and text.
Internet BZ$79 For a plan with download speeds of 40 Mbps.
Household Help BZ$180 For four half-day visits per month. Landscaping is BZ$50 to BZ$60 per half-day.
Groceries BZ$800 Basic items for couple.
Entertainment BZ$592 A couple’s cost for eating out twice a week at a mid-range, local restaurant (BZ$30 per person per meal) and drinks twice a week at a nearby watering hole (BZ$7 per drink).
Gym Membership BZ$130
Medical Appointment BZ$69 Basic appointment, paying out of pocket.
Total BZ$3,995

Apartment Or House Rental Budget (For A Couple)

 
Item Cost Notes
Rent BZ$3,200 Two-bedroom apartment of roughly 70 to 100 square meters.
Gas BZ$40 Butane for cooking.
Transportation BZ$1,000 Golf cart rental. This cost disappears once you have permanent residency or QRP status and can buy your own cart.
Electricity BZ$350 With mini splits for air conditioning.
Water BZ$150
Cell Phone BZ$55 Includes 8GB of data, unlimited talk and text.
Internet BZ$79 For a plan with download speeds of 40 Mbps.
Household Help BZ$180 For four half-day visits per month. Landscaping is BZ$50 to BZ$60 per half-day.
Groceries BZ$800 Basic items for couple.
Entertainment BZ$592 A couple’s cost for eating out twice a week at a mid-range, local restaurant (BZ$30 per person per meal) and drinks twice a week at a nearby watering hole (BZ$7 per drink).
Gym Membership BZ$130
Medical Appointment BZ$69 Basic appointment, paying out of pocket.
Total BZ$6,645
Click here for currency conversion at today’s exchange rate.

Penny-Pincher’s Budget (Bare Minimum Costs, For A Couple)

 
Item Cost Notes
Rent BZ$1,200 Basic one-bedroom rental.
Transportation Walking or biking. There is no public transportation.
Gas BZ$40 Butane for cooking.
Electricity BZ$250 Running air conditioning at night in one bedroom.
Water Usually included in basic apartment.
Cell Phone BZ$34 Including 6GB of data.
Internet BZ$49 For a plan with download speeds of 20 Mbps.
Groceries BZ$500 All local-brand items only, shopping markets and local vendors along with grocery stores.
Entertainment BZ$288 Low-cost meals at local places twice a week (BZ$12 per meal per person) plus drinks twice a week (BZ$3 to BZ$6).
Total BZ$2,361

Infrastructure In Ambergris Caye, Belize

Ambergris Caye is coming of age. The three original town roads are paved, and several others have been carved out.

A central island roadway continues nearly from end to end, meaning that, now, you don’t have to travel by boat to see the length of the island. You can go by golf cart (the preferred means of transportation these days).

As long as you rent or invest in property near town, you’ll find that the utilities and infrastructure are similar to those in any small North American city.

The exceptions to this are the roads and sidewalks.

The main drag in San Pedro is paved with cobblestones throughout the major town area. But most streets lack sidewalks or marked parking lots.

Ambergris Caye has basic utility services such as electricity, water, and telecommunications.

Most areas on the island have access to reliable power supply. However, occasional power outages do occur, particularly when there are sever weather conditions (strong winds, heavy rain, and thunder).

Internet is also widely available on Ambergris Caye, too.

The quality and speed of the internet varies depending on your location and who the service provider is.

Things To Do In Ambergris Caye, Belize

View from boat tropical beach resort in Ambergris Caye Belize
Adobestock/Simona

Visitors are often surprised by the variety and quality of restaurants and bars on such a small island. From inexpensive street vendors to high-end chic resorts, you’ll find many options worth exploring, including Rome-style pizzas, Japanese sushi, tempting Belizean, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Indian, Caribbean, Chinese, Thai, and California-style cuisines.

Fresh local seafood is presented in creative local specialties. Be sure to sample the local grouper, lobster, snook, conch, and snapper dishes. Fresh shrimp is always in season, as it comes from the local shrimp farms. Lobster, however, is seasonal, but is available most of the year.

The beach bars of San Pedro tend to be quirky, with unforgettable names. Crazy Canucks, Road Kill Bar, Fido’s, BC’s, Wet Willy’s, Pedro’s Inn, and the Wahoo Lounge are all well-known hangouts. Each offers a selection of tropical drinks, local beer, and free music or other entertainment. Whether you prefer live music and dancing, karaoke, the famous chicken drop contest, or trivial pursuit, you’ll find a variety of options at these local hot spots.

For outstanding food with a great sea view, try the Blue Water Grill and Wild Mango. Both are in the center of town, on the beach. Each provides consistently good and creative cuisine. Prices for lunch typically range from US$12–15. Blue Water Grill has outstanding fish and chips (fries). But they also offer fresh, creative salads, coconut shrimp, sopa de limón, and pizzas. In 2010 this well-respected restaurant won the “Best Restaurant in Belize” award.

Wild Mango offers the most diverse appetizers you’ll find in San Pedro Town. You can make a complete meal of tapas-style appetizers. Noted local chef Amy Knox infuses variations of Caribbean food with spicy Latin flavors from Cuba, Argentina, and Mexico. She has twice earned “Belize Chef of the Year” honors. Specialties include small appetizers such as pulled pork taquitos, tequila-stacked shrimp, and fish burritos. And you can choose from seven different types of ceviche. Seating is limited, so arrive early!

Another landmark restaurant is Elvi’s, which specializes in seafood. But this long-established restaurant also offers a good selection of local dishes, and even some with an Asian twist. Located on Pescador/Middle Street, it’s fairly close to the town square. They offer great lunches at a reasonable price. You’ll find an unusual mix of reasonably priced taco plates, each with different sauces. Other standouts include the coconut curry shrimp, Fish a la Elvi, and Mayan Chicken. The ambiance is old Belize, with a tree growing through the restaurant roof and sand floors.

When you want to splurge, head for Victoria House, Mata Chica, or Rojo Lounge; the latter two are both north of the bridge. These are the most respected high-end resort restaurants. A dinner at one of these restaurants will set you back more than US$50 per person, including a drink or two. But the food quality is comparable to restaurants in major North American cities. The ambiance tends toward Caribbean island chic.

If you are on a tight budget, tasty street food can be had for less than US$5 for a full meal. On the town square, locals set up food stalls and sell filling tacos, burritos, and complete plates of food. I recently bought a tasty and filling chicken taco for only US$2. BBQ is the most popular main course. It’s sold on street corners and in the parks, especially on the weekends. Stewed chicken, rice, and beans are another staple of the locals. Many street vendors offer papusas, garnaches, salbutes, burritos, and other dishes common to Mexico and Central American neighbors.

Pay attention to where the locals eat. There are plenty of hole-in-the-wall restaurants that offer tasty and filling food for under US$7 a meal. Every local has their favorite…

For a treat, be sure to stop at Dande’s ice cream shop on Pescador/Middle Street, next door to Caramba’s. According to Eileen and Dan, the long-term expat owners, they are actually making frozen custard, not ice cream. This tiny storefront shop offers a mix of freshly made frozen custard and sorbets. Try Java Joe, mint chip, red apple, or rich chocolate. For the more daring, you’ll find soursop, mango, or caye lime sorbet and custard. It’s not surprising that visitors always return to this popular shop… They’re open every day but Tuesday, from 2–10 PM.

Another attractive place to meet expats or locals is the Sail Away Café. Here you can stop for a hot cappuccino or a cold frappuccino. This coffee bar is across the street from Fido’s on Front Street. It’s a relaxed place to hang out and meet friends, without the need to drink alcohol… But, of course, you can also get any type of alcoholic beverage you can think of.

Retire In Ambergris Caye, Belize

Sunrise, Ambergris Caye, Belize
Adobestock/Michael DeFreitas/Danita Delimont

Ambergris Caye has long been one of the Caribbean’s most appealing retirement choices. What draws retirees here is not only the warm weather and the reef at your doorstep, but the sense of ease the island offers. English is spoken everywhere, daily life is simple to navigate, and new arrivals find it easy to settle into the rhythm of island living.

For many retirees, the community is what makes Ambergris Caye special. The island has a strong and active expat population—people who spend their time opening small businesses, volunteering, joining local clubs, and planning beach barbecues and social gatherings. It’s a friendly, low-pressure environment where it’s easy to make friends and stay engaged.

Healthcare is also surprisingly accessible for a small island. General medical care is affordable, with doctor visits typically costing US$20–$30, and many practitioners trained internationally. More specialized testing is usually done in Belize City, where private clinics offer same-day results at a fraction of U.S. prices. Most retirees find this system workable and budget-friendly.

The island’s maturity adds to its appeal. Ambergris Caye has grown up over the years, adding better services, restaurants, internet, shops, and transport—all without losing its laid-back Caribbean charm. Property prices are higher than on the mainland, but still competitive compared to other Caribbean islands, and the QRP program gives retirees a flexible, tax-friendly way to establish long-term residence.

For retirees who want a warm, welcoming place to build a life overseas—full-time or seasonally—Ambergris Caye offers an easy transition, a built-in community, and a lifestyle that balances comfort with the natural beauty of the Caribbean.

Health Care In Ambergris Caye, Belize

San Pedro Town, Belize Aerial
Adobestock/Shane

 

Belize isn’t known for its health care system. Ambergris Caye offers basic medical services and it’s not as extensive or advanced as in other countries.

Belize City, the largest city in Belize, is about two hours by boat from Ambergris Caye and it’s the option you should consider if you require more specialized care.

However, this still isn’t the place to go if you require a more specialized medical treatments or procedures.

Most people who’ve retired or relocated to Belize likely choose to head over to Mexico or head back home to the United States.

Medical care on Ambergris Caye, Belize, is very affordable.

A visit to the doctor will run from US$20 to US$30 per visit, depending on which doctor you visit.

Most prescriptions are sold over the counter and are reasonably priced. (Some people head to Belize City every six months and stock up on meds at Brodies. It is less expensive there than on the island.)

For instance, it’s possible to get a full battery of medical tests for between US$200 to US$300 at Belize Medical Associates, in Belize City. That is where expats have their yearly annual blood, and other work, done.

Most expats also have BUPA insurance and say they generally stay well below their deductible. As a result, dental care is also very reasonable, and the quality is good. You’ll find good dentists on the island.

Safety In Ambergris Caye, Belize

A view of the bungalow overwater beautifully lit up at dusk in Belize.
Adobestock/OLya_L

Ambergris Caye has a long history of being a peaceful and welcoming place to live. The island was originally settled by families who moved here seeking safety during regional conflicts, and it remained a calm refuge through much of its modern development. A formal treaty between Mexico and Great Britain in the late 1800s settled earlier disputes over the island’s territory, and from that point forward, “peace has prevailed” on Ambergris Caye.

Today, the island’s sense of safety comes largely from its strong community life. Ambergris Caye is a small, tight-knit place where locals and expats interact daily, know their neighbors, and actively participate in island events and civic matters. This social cohesion contributes to the easygoing atmosphere that many retirees describe as one of Ambergris Caye’s biggest strengths.

Environmental safety is also supported by the island’s geography. The Belize Barrier Reef, located less than a mile offshore, helps protect the island from storm surge during tropical weather. Hurricanes in Belize are infrequent, and most storms pass far north of the country, though seasonal precautions are still part of island living.

Weather In Ambergris Caye, Belize

Belize Cayes - Paradise beach on island caye Carrie Bow Cay Field Station, Caribbean Sea, Belize. Tropical destination
Adobestock/Simon Dannhauer

Life on Ambergris is all about the sun, the sand, and the sea, and the U.S. and other expats and retirees who’ve chosen to base themselves here couldn’t be more welcoming of like-minded beach-loving expats who make their way to this island to join them.

The weather on Ambergris Caye is similar to that of Corozal and the coast of Northern Belize. As a result, the temperatures range from a high of 85°F to 94°F during the summer months and from 70°F to 85°F during winter.

Temperatures in the evening are typically at least 10 degrees cooler.

During most of the year the heat is moderated by the cooling Caribbean Sea breeze.

Only in August and September does this breeze diminish. In short, these are the warmest months of the year.

In the winter the northerlies bring chilly breezes; the temperature can drop 10 degrees or more for a few days at a time. December through March is the period when northerlies are common.

Ambergris Caye receives an average of 40 to 60 inches of rain a year. This is significantly less than the southern areas of Belize.

In short, Punta Gorda can receive 160 to 190 inches of rain in a year. The dry season runs from November through May.

The lowest rainfall is from February through May, making it a perfect time to visit. The wettest months, on average, are June and October.

Belize’s hurricane season is June through mid-November. But the few hurricanes that do occur are most likely to hit Belize in September and October.

Atlantic basin hurricanes typically originate off the coast of Africa, near the same latitude as Belize. They track west for a while and then typically head northwest toward Florida or North Carolina.

Most of these hurricanes don’t come anywhere near Belize.

Lief Simon, Director of Overseas Property Alert, Founde of Simon Letter, and Founder, of Global Property Advisor

Reviewed By Lief Simon

Lief Simon is the managing editor of Global Property Advisor, Simon Letter, and Offshore Living Letter. He has purchased more than 45 properties, investing in 23 different countries around the world.

Start Your New Overseas Life Today

A world full of fun, adventure, and profit awaits! Sign up for our free daily e-letter, Overseas Opportunity Letter, and we’ll send you a FREE report on the 10 Best Places To Retire In Style Overseas Today 2025

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Ambergris Caye, Belize- FAQs

Yes. The ocean in Ambergris Caye is swimmable. In fact, this is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Belize because of its ocean and the barrier reef. Anyone who enjoys snorkeling and diving find Ambergris Caye, Belize, to be as close to paradise as it gets.

Ambergris Caye is a tropical island. It is known for an event known as Lobster fest. The activity takes place on Caye Caulker and Ambergris Caye, signaling the beginning of lobster season in July.

Most hotels and restaurants will have purifying systems for their taps. However, most people will prefer to buy bottled water. The taste is better and it’s undeniably safer.

Ambergris Caye is a tropical island. Like any other tropical island or country, Ambergris Caye does have mosquitos. Make sure to wear bug spray (mosquito repellent) when out and about.

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